Simple Techniques W/Hand Tools....

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,
I wanted to post this project to help the youngsters & newbies entering the fabrication arena. These simple methods that work quite nicely and will result in completion of a project without the use or access of larger machinery such as dry-cut saw, mill, brake, or lathe. Everything done was with simple hand power tools, and the only "machine" was a drill press, and that could also be replaced with a hand power drill.

This is a heavy security box made for a customer who needed to deter a burglar. It is made with 1/4" X 22" X 24" steel plate for the box, & 1/4" X 14" X 11" plate for the lid. The bends are made by cutting slots .200 deep & bending so there is an outside welding groove. Everything else done is kinda self-explanatory with the pics in the sequence of operation. They show the techniques used to attain squareness & methods to accomplish with hand tools. The other material is a 12", 5/8" X 12"L Gr6 threaded rod, 7/8"OD X .125W X .625ID steel tube, & 3" weld-on steel hinges. This box is used for coins & securing some jewelery, and finished dimensions are 12"L X 10"W X 6"H & weighs 37lbs. Anyway, the pics will show that you can indeed do some heavy-duty work with just hand tools and learn fabrication methods that will enhance your ability to get some additional work without investing in elaborate or expensive equipment.

There are (35) pics so I need (7) posts to complete. PLEASE WAIT TILL I GET ALL THE POSTS DONE!!! Thanks.......... Denny

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 2: Hang on....

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 3.... Getting there....

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 4.... Getting there....

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 5.... A few more....

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 6... Almost there....

[yorkiepap]

GROUP 7..... Finally there..... Hope this gives you some ideas & techniques that will help you...... Denny

[GilaSlim]

Nice work, Denny. How did you make your bending slots exactly .200 deep? Just real slow and careful with your angle grinder?

How did you do the bends after cutting? Hammer?

GS

[fjk]

Thanks for posting the project.
It's also an inspiration to those of us who do this as a hobby and
dont have the money, space, or justification for buying all the
tools we want...

A qeustion for you
Why do the slots for the bends? Is it to help hold all the
pieces parts together prior to welding, or have I missed
something?


Frank

[Bob]

Very Nice! Special thanks for all those great pictures.

The crook in me wants to say: I think one could open it with a wrench on the bolt head ... just back it out tearing apart the lock hole area of the bolt.

May I suggest replacing the threaded bolt with a larger, un-threated rod (more metal to put the lock in). Weld some washers to make a "head" on one end. For extra measure, the metal around the lock hole could be flame hardened.

Bob:D

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,

To GilaSlim: I know from experience that a .200 slot is enough to get the metal to bend easily. I usually mark a line on the edge with a caliper setting of .200 & then simply cut with the cutoff wheel gradually till I get to the .200 line. Usually, you can bend the steel with just your hands, or if there is a thick spot, a 12" crescent wrench will do the trick. As I bend, I keep checking with my square till I reach 90*. You need a fairly heavy brake to bend 1/4" & most hobbyists don't have or get enough work to justify investing in one. Many seem to want to be able to bend steel or aluminum, & this is just a simple method that works quite effortlessly. The nice feature of this method is you get a very sharp inside corner, whereas a brake will make a fairly large radius because of thickness. The reverse of the application can be utilized if you angle your slots on each side to form a "V" notch & you will end up with a sharp outside corner.

To fjk: Without slots or a heavy metal brake, how would you bend the steel? The slots are simply a cut in the metal to be able to bend to a desired angle & retain a nice sharp inside corner..... and YES....everything stays together. After bending, I used 1 1/2" alum. angle clamped to each of the inside corners to maintain squareness.

To Bob: ANYTHING can be broken into....the simple parameter of "determination" will dictate the effort one wants to engage to steal from another. This box was constructed as per customers' drawing & he has prepared the area the box will reside. From what I gather as to his limited information, he will secure the box with several methods. Again, this post is to show techniques & methods to be able to do some work that many think is not feasible because they don't have elaborate equipment.

Denny

[Bob]

Denny,
I especially like the hindge being made from pipe. Given the same task, I'll bet I would have bougth hindges at the hardware store. I like your idea better.
Bob:D

[fjk]

To fjk: Without slots or a heavy metal brake, how would you bend the steel? The slots are simply a cut in the metal to be able to bend to a desired angle & retain a nice sharp inside corner..... and YES....everything stays together. After bending, I used 1 1/2" alum. angle clamped to each of the inside corners to maintain squareness.

As usual, I see that I didn't say quite what I wanted to say.... :o

Why not just cut the stock into individual pieces, rather than
slotting & bending it? (I imagine it's that "everything stays
together" ... just wondering if I'd missed something).

Thanks

Frank

[Zrexxer]

Simple Techniques W/Hand Tools....
An interesting project, but...

THIS is a hand tool :D:D:D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v58/Zrexxer/Forums/lenox-1.jpg

[metallurgy]

This may have changed my life.

I have a lot more patience than I did when I got the welder 2 years ago. I owe it to trying to thread things on the lathe. I figured work like that box was beyond me. It's so CLEAN and PRECISE and slick and pretty.

It's inspiring because it's within my reach and it's so tight. Files and grinding discs. mmm

I saved all 35 pics, for next time I'm trying to figure out how I could afford a mill (haha!). No brake, no shear, :D:D:D

When you cut out those square sections could you just use the cut-off wheel for that? Or was that a torch cut filed smooth?

[yorkiepap]

Hey metallurgy,
Yes, the outside corners were cut with a 4 1/2" Sait cutoff disc. After the cuts, I deburr all the edges with my air grinder. Most don't realize the thicknesses of metal that the simple cutoff disc can do & although it may take a bit more time, generally leaves a nice smooth edge. Glad you found the post informative...... Denny

[kc5ngx]

Thanks for posting this yorkiepap! I like it!


Take Care,

John
:)

[Tom37]

Nice work Denny.

Thanks for the pics. I to am saving these to show the newcomers that anything is possible with a limited supply of tools. I have to make do with what I have alot of the time. I think I will have to do a project like this with my son. It will be hard to sit back and watch but I will try.

[metallurgy]

I did some cutoffwheeling over the last couple days and I am not being very successful. I cut some 22 ga clamped to wet plywood, but beyond that I have been getting sparks everywhere I don't want them, a cutoff wheel broken and flung into the metal sheild and not a lot of actual cutting. I tried the sawzall to see if it was any faster and it was. The hand-powered hacksaw was as fast as the grinder, but much less set up was required.

I'm making a box like yours, half as big but just as thick.

How do they do that sort of cut in "the industry" ?

[Hotfoot]

Nice job...but how much did you have to charge? ('seems like your client could have just bought one cheaper...and fire rated, at that!). The box has no real security with those external hinge bolts and a padlock. A cut-off wheel gains access in less than a minute...and the thieves have all discovered the cordless/rechargeable angle grinders by now! Nice project, though. I like your bends, but I still don't understand how you keep from cutting through. How many hours were in this job?

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,
I'm glad to see some of you find the technique to manipulate metal can be done easily with simple hand tools. Believe me, as I replied to Bob, with determination, anything can be broken into.... that is an absolute. The difficulty is the only parameter that may reduce the threat. In addition, there is another failsafe I incorporated that was not posted & unless some serious equipment was engaged, the box is quite secure. The customer was quite satisfied & he indicated(without revealing) other steps he incorporated. After his satisfaction with what I did & his payment($200/3hrs), it was out of my hands & concern.

Again, my posting was to encourage the newbies & youngsters into fabrication, that going thousands of dollars in debt for every kind of fabricating equipment is not necessary. Learning techniques with simple power tools can open up new avenues & the results can be quite pleasing & rewarding. This will allow one to determine if the demand is there for this kind of fab work, then one can budget for an investment into better power equipment.

Hotfoot: If you read the response I gave to GilaSlim, you will see the technique I use with superb results. It takes some practice to get the "feel" of the depth of the cutting wheel, but I have been doing it for so many years, it's quite easy for me. It is simply a nice technique that leaves really nice, sharp inside corners. And, it really works superb with aluminum in reverse & the outside corners cannot be matched with any kind of brake.

Anyway, just wanted to provide more info to help...... Denny

[Sberry]

I built one similar as an insert to a safe yrs ago with a drop slot, didnt have to keep opening safe during shift to put money into.

[GilaSlim]

... but I still don't understand how you keep from cutting through.

Hotfoot, at my age and medical condition (and coffee consumption), I'm pretty sure I could not use YorkiePap's freehand technique to make the cut to the depth of lines drawn on the edge of the workpiece, and keep it consistant across a wide piece. So, I came up with my own mechanically assisted technique.

I use a straight-edge clamp to guide circular saw cuts on sheets of plywood. I have never needed to, but one could easily set the saw for a shallow cut and make a groove. Why not do a similar thing for metal?

1. Build a wooden cradle to securely hold your angle grinder, with a strap or clamp to hold the grinder in place. The wheel should protrude below the cradle as much as the depth of cut that you want. It should also be buried about 1/16 inch deep from the end of the cradle.

2. Clamp the workpiece down to a table with your straight-edge clamp, with the edge of the clamp parallel to the cutline, and offset 1/16 inch from one edge of your desired groove.

3. Butt the face of the cradle up to the clamp, turn on the grinder, and slowly slide it across the workpiece, keeping it tight against the clamp.

4. In a perfect world, your grinding wheel would be exactly as thick as the desired groove is wide. If it is not, use a thinner wheel and make a second pass with the clamp offset to make up the difference.

5. In that same perfect world, your grinding wheel would never get smaller in diameter as you used it. If you use some kind of depth adjustment in your cradle, you can adjust for this. Screw adjusters might be a little complicated, but a simple version would be to place a couple sheets of paper between the grinder and the cradle so you can add/remove paper to make adjustments.

No, I have not built the cradle or tried it yet, but it seems that it should work.

GS

[metallurgy]

I think you are really overthinking this. Have you ever tried scoring metal with a cutoff wheel? It's not instantaneous.

Once you get the score started you just keep running the grinder along the score until it's as deep as you want.

I'm going to wait till I have adequate space and an adequate table to do it again. My table is currently optimized for redirecting sparks into my face.

Gila-If you get that to work post some pics please! I want one!

[nctox]

I did the V-8 commercial when I read your thread about scoring the sheet metal to bend it! Why didn't I think of that? Your pics were really helpful. I was trying to bend a 1/8" sheet for a tray to mount on my welder cart, and with just a vise and big hammer it wasn't working. I scored it like you depicted, and it bent perfectly. I knew there was a reason I liked this forum!!:D

[whateg0]

Great post! The only comment I have is on the angle grinder with no guard. I have had cutoff wheels come apart and hit me in the chest, even with the guard. So, to new guys wanting to try this at home, use the guard. Besides, it deflects the sparks from hitting you directly in the safety glasses.

Dave

[Roger]

If angle grinder guard is position right it can help limit depth of cut.

[GilaSlim]

Gila-If you get that to work post some pics please! I want one!

Metallurgy, it occured to me after I posted about the cradle, there may be an easier though more expensive way. If you have one of those metal-cutting circular saws, like this guy...

http://www.mytoolstore.com/milwauke/6370-21.html

... just use the saw set for a shallow cut and the straight-edge clamp. I'm guessing the kerf width is probably about 1/8 inch like a wood-cutting blade, which might be too wide. I wonder if they make a narrow kerf blade for these.

I know a few guys on this forum have them. Maybe someone will try it out and let us know.

GS

[metallurgy]

gila- I'll look into that someday when I have money and a real shop. I like the idea though. It'd probably still be cheaper than the brake that could bend 1/4" steel (haha).

When the cutoff wheel broke it flew into the spark sheild I had set up. It was loud and it scared me pretty well. I was pretty happy I had both the guard on the grinder and the leather jacket.

[whateg0]

...If you have one of those metal-cutting circular saws, like this guy...

Not that it's a bad idea, but I think the idea was to document using tools that most beginners already have on hand. Come to think of it, I'd like to have had one of those metal-cutting circ saws when I was a beginner. :rolleyes:

Dave

[Mr Meck]

But Oboo, the 6 in dia .045 cut off wheel won't fit on my 4 in grinder with the guard on.

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,
I wanted to concur with Dave(whateg0) and reinforce his concern regarding the possibility of disc disintegration while in use. I use mine without the guard although I have heavy leather on and a large face shield with goggles underneath & a respirator. Don't breath in the disc/metal dust produced. I also always stand to the side to maintain some clearance if the blade does come apart. I use Sait cutoff discs religiously as they have never failed me.... doesn't mean they won't. For you youngsters/newbies, engage the gray matter & keep the shield on your unit & protect your body..... ESPECIALLY YOUR EYES!!!! Your eyes are the most precious part of your body.... don't put them in jeopardy under any circumstance or operation. Just use common sense & take the necessary precautions..... you will be glad you did..... Denny

[caldwellcpl]

Perhaps this little gizmo from Harbor Freight would help on cutting that groove.
And at $6 bucks it shouldn't break the bank! Only problem I've found is my local HF doesn't carry them.

By the way GREAT POST!


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45921

Bob

[nctox]

Perhaps this little gizmo from Harbor Freight would help on cutting that groove.
And at $6 bucks it shouldn't break the bank! Only problem I've found is my local HF doesn't carry them.

By the way GREAT POST!


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45921

Bob

Thanks for posting that. I will look for one.:)

[whateg0]

You have to remember that as you cut a groove in a surface, the abrasive wheel wears away. So, if using a fixed shoe, like that one, by the time you get to the end of a long cut, the cut will be much shallower, or maybe non-existent. It would help with keeping the cut straight, though, and would limit the depth.

Dave

[GilaSlim]

Do those things fit on grinders other than HF? Like a DeWalt?

[caldwellcpl]

Here is the link to the on line PDF manual for the grinder guard. You may be able to tell whether it would fit a Dewalt. Looks to me it would fit about any 4/4.5" grinder.

Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/45000-45999/45921.pdf

Bob

[FWI]

Nice Project and Pictures

[superscubadude]

i bought one of thoese guards for the six bucks HF wanted and now I feel I could have built one for about 25 or 30 buck myself. :D

[vicegrip]

This may have changed my life.

I have a lot more patience than I did when I got the welder 2 years ago. [B][I]I owe it to trying to thread things on the lathe.

What particular problem was that? If you don't mind regergitating it.;)

VG

[dearhuntn]

Hey everyone
Have you thought about a 7 1/4" circular saw with a 7" cut off wheel in it set to the desired depth and a angle iron fence clamped onto it for a guide.
I have an old plastic craftman circular saw I use with a cut off blade for cutting sheet metal and stuff I can not get into the cutoff saw. The thing that is weird is the metal heavy duty circular saw I have I use for cutting wool LOL. I do get the plastic saw to start smoldering some times LOL.

[walker]

If you use this method but then bend the opposite way you don't have to do a full weld on each seam, it also gives you a much smoother factory bent looking finish. So score the material the same way but bend the material to where it closes the gap instead of opening it.

[Thegratenate]

I just wanted to bring this back to the top because it's an awesome thread, the specific procedures described may or may not help some of us out, but the approach is bound to help many of us. It is also inspiring to see what can be done with "simple" hand tools.