Steel type 1144 (nicknamed "Stressproof")

[madmike]

hello anyone weld this stuff? im planning on using some for a barbell project and was wondering how its welded as far as filler and or any special procedures to use...never used this material before

i used the search but didnt find anything about welding this alloy

thanks!

mike

[Zrexxer]

Google is your friend... from the manufacturer:

"A high manganese, medium carbon, resulphurized steel with free machining qualities and higher mechanical properties than the lower carbon steels. This grade machines at 83% of 1212 with excellent as machined finish. It induction hardens satisfactorily, but the sulfides can contribute to quench cracking. It is difficult to weld."

From another source:

"Low-hydrogen consumables and procedures are a must in order to reduce the likelihood of hydrogen-induced cracking. If the stress levels in the weld/HAZ are such that the original properties of the 1144 stressproof are required, a post-weld heat treatment may be needed.

The most significant reason that 11xx series steels are deemed not suitable for arc welding is because they contain large amounts (in the case of 1144 I would say enormous) of sulfur and phosphorus (machinability aids), which are extremely detrimental to weld quality. Solidification cracking, porosity formation, and lamellar tearing are all defects that are frequently encountered.

A low-hydrogen consumable is necessary with a basic slag sytem-- low hydrogen reduces porosity due to hydrogen sulfide formation and basic slag reduces the S & P levels of the weld metal. Shielded metal arc welding electrodes such as E7015, E7016, and E7018 are preferred. For gas-shielded flux-cored electrodes, E70T-5 and E71T-5 types are preferred over T-1 electrodes. Self-shielded flux-cored electrodes of the T-4, T-7, and T-8 types are recommended. Low currents should be used with all electrodes."

[madmike]

thanks!!:)

[chenry]

dont weld it

seriously

use a 1045 if you need strength and weldability. just preheat and post heat the weld.

no special rod required

[vicegrip]

Petty good info on what to NOT use Stress-Proof for.

What it is for is 100% turned to size shafts.
In applications where a shaft is needed, and it needs to be dead-str8,
and have perfect fits for bearings, this is the metal for you.

It can't be made into an Axcel for a dragster, but it can be used to replace
say a pump-shaft, that is no longer stocked.

An accomplished lathe-hand can turn up a perfect shaft out of this alloy.
No need to grind the fits for bearing races etc.

M1m

[gatemaker]

It heat treats ok to 40 to 45 rc which is why many small gears and sprockets are made from it. It also cuts well with fine shavings. If you need to weld on hub or other small part you should use 1040/1045 or 1026. You would not want to make a gear with 1026 as it doesn't harden much and wears quickly, but welds great.

[chenry]

An accomplished lathe-hand can turn up a perfect shaft out of this alloy.
No need to grind the fits for bearing races etc.

M1m


an accomplished lathe hand better be able to do that out of many materials
on huge shafts with old worn out lathes :D

[usmcpop]

an accomplished lathe hand better be able to do that out of many materials on huge shafts with old worn out lathes :D


I'm sure that Phil can do that in his sleep. Possibly while driving to work.

[vicegrip]

an accomplished lathe hand better be able to do that out of many materials
on huge shafts with old worn out lathes :D

Thanks for your vote of confidence D!ck.
What I mean is the "alloy" is just for that purpose.
It is free of stresses, and has a good blend of machinability,
and axial strenght.

As far as lathe-work goes, I don't mean use emery strips to sand in the bearing fits.
And I'd hazard a guess that over half the guys that get a pay-check
for machining can't use a steady-rest (effectively and efficiently).

VG

[chenry]

the steady rest is a cruel and exacting mistress. 99% of them are abused and the other 1% are imports that dont line up correctly to start with.

* hours reworking a steady to bring it true is well worth the money.


sanding bearing fits is a no-no.............

prefer either ground or roller burnished.