Welding in Corners - Arc blow?

[Krunch]

I was welding some pipes to a trailer to serve as guides for pulling my duck boat (jon boat) onto the trailer, and I had some problems getting the arc to go where I wanted it.

The pipes are cut at an angle (approx. 35° if I had to guess) so that they lean outward to accommodate the angled sides of the jon boat. When I went to weld them on, when I tried to lay a bead on the "inside corner" (i.e., where the pipe leaned outward), the arc kept trying to wander to the pipe or to the trailer frame, rather than into the joint where I wanted it to go. Sometimes the arc even wandered so that it was coming off the SIDE of the electrode rather than the end of it.

I kept lowering my amperage and shortening my arc length, thinking that might help, but it didn't really help. It just made me "stick" more.

Is this an example of arc blow? And would using AC rather than DC help? (I was using DCEP ~ 65A with 3/32" 6011.)

Thanks,

Jeff

[Rocky D]

Sounds like arc blow to me...move the ground clamp somewhere else, till it goes away...and it still might not.

[TEK]

Sounds like arc blow to me...move the ground clamp somewhere else, till it goes away...and it still might not.

Also, try wrapping the ground/work lead several times around the part, or coiling it up on the ground(terra firma) or switching to AC. Or tacking something else to the trailer and clamping on it. Arc blow is caused by variations and fluctuations in the magnetic fields formed when welding. Any, and all, of the above have been known to work....

[Krunch]

Thanks guys, let me try some of your suggestions.

[usmcpop]

The Lincoln Electric site has an extensive article on arc blow in their Knowledgebase articles. Worth reading.

[Sberry]

I think the joint is too tight to fit the rod in? Once its tacked up in a couple places blow shouldnt be an issue, I find it very rare.

[moya034]

What brand electrodes are you using? Sometimes low quality electrodes can have inconsistencies or an uneven flux coating which can make the arc unstable as parts of the electrode burn, and can be mistaken as arc blow. We have been having major problems with the Hobart 6010 electrodes at school... everyone including the teachers cusses at them.


The Lincoln Electric site has an extensive article on arc blow in their Knowledgebase articles. Worth reading.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/arcblow.asp

Edit: If you are using 6011, give it a shot on AC, and see what happens.

[Sberry]

I found a box of Hobart 6010 I forgot I had, they were taped shut but must have been 10+ years and they run like crap, burn all off to one side. I think the coating "settles" from laying on the side for so long.

[Krunch]

What brand electrodes are you using?

These are from a new 50# can of Lincoln Electric 3/32" 6011 (Fleetweld 180, I think they call it).

For some reason I have a lot of trouble with these but I do great with the 1/8" version of the exact same rod...go figure.

[Sberry]

We need a pic of this joint.

[moya034]

I found a box of Hobart 6010 I forgot I had, they were taped shut but must have been 10+ years and they run like crap, burn all off to one side. I think the coating "settles" from laying on the side for so long.
The electrodes we have at school haven't been in storage for more then a few months and they still run like crap. They normally buy Lincoln, but got a "really good deal" on the Hobarts... so much for a good deal. I've talked to other weldors online who have the same problems with them.

I look at it like this, If I can learn to make good welds with crap electrodes, imagine what I can do with quality ones!

[moya034]

These are from a new 50# can of Lincoln Electric 3/32" 6011 (Fleetweld 180, I think they call it).

For some reason I have a lot of trouble with these but I do great with the 1/8" version of the exact same rod...go figure.
Lincoln makes great electrodes. Did you try AC current yet with them to see if that solves the issue?

I have used the 3/32" Fleetweld 180's at home with great success, perhaps you need to adjust the current you are using with them.

[calweld]

Fastest quickest fix, if you are using 6011, is switch to AC.

If your "problem" still exists, it ain't arc blow .....

[Sberry]

Man, thats wayyyyy tooooo easy. We can stretch this thread a bit further than that, at least a couple more pages.

[Krunch]

Update: It was arc blow, I believe, because I switched to AC and it spattered a lot and the arc was finicky but she laid down the steel like a SAW lays down lead. :D

Thanks for the help, as always.

Jeff

Edit: I'm kinda LIKING the way this welding machine works on AC...up until now I've been using DC about 98% of the time...but I like the way it runs on AC...I also like the idea that I can run it at 100A AC at 100% duty cycle!

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/fffmain/smilies/magic.gif