Help 115 volt plug?

[bdog_v]

HI guys I decided to buy the Hobart 400 series plasma cutter but I overlooked one large issue. My parents garage is wired for 110volts and the plasma cutter has a 115 volt plug on the end. I have never seen a plug like this it has 3 prongs and the two flat ones are in a T shape. Can I simply remove this plug and install a standard 110 plug or can I buy an adapter or do I need an electrician to install a 115volt matching electrical outlet? If I need the outlet will that be a simple swap or major investment?

Thanks this really threw a wrench in my weekend plans.................

[willness33]

That is a 20 amp/110 volt specific plug. If the garage is on a 20 amp breaker, run to Lowe's and buy a receptacle that is rated for 20 amps. It'll have a "T" shaped hole for one of the prongs that'll accept that plug.

[Roger]

I looked in the manual and saw;
Hobart Airforce 400 operates from a 30 ampere, 115 volt circuit or a 15 ampere, 230 volt circuit. I wouldn't try running it of a 20 amp 110/115V circuit. That is reason for strange plug. It will run on 230 volt dryer outlet after you install a dryer cord.

[usmcpop]

Here's a handy reference chart for various straight plug and socket configurations by the NEMA designation:

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U008.pdf

And here's for twist-lock:

http://www.passandseymour.com/pdf/U009.pdf

And here are some reference wiring diagrams for outlets, sockets & plugs:
passandseymour.com/pdf/U013-U020.pdf


These and other docs are in the DOWNLOADS sections of Pass & Seymour's site: http://www.passandseymour.com/ I used a whole bunch of their switches and outlets when I wired my garage addition and I really like them.

[Broccoli1]

I looked in the manual and saw;
Hobart Airforce 400 operates from a 30 ampere, 115 volt circuit or a 15 ampere, 230 volt circuit. I wouldn't try running it of a 20 amp 110/115V circuit. That is reason for strange plug. It will run on 230 volt dryer outlet after you install a dryer cord.

I know what yer saying but the 400 operates on any 115 circuit- it does not have to be a 30 amp.....

BUT to get the top range out of the machine on 110v/115v/120v -YES- a 115/120v 30 amp dedicated Circuit should be run.:)

[Broccoli1]

:)
HI guys I decided to buy the Hobart 400 series plasma cutter but I overlooked one large issue. My parents garage is wired for 110volts and the plasma cutter has a 115 volt plug on the end. I have never seen a plug like this it has 3 prongs and the two flat ones are in a T shape. Can I simply remove this plug and install a standard 110 plug or can I buy an adapter or do I need an electrician to install a 115volt matching electrical outlet? If I need the outlet will that be a simple swap or major investment?

Thanks this really threw a wrench in my weekend plans.................

yes- you can change the Plug:)

[willness33]

:)

yes- you can change the Plug:)

Or the receptacle to a 5-20R (good charts, usmcpop), but changing the plug gives you a little more versatility as to where you use the machine.;)

[Broccoli1]

Cutting thicker stock you will most likely trip the Circuit Breaker:(

I would also bet the geerage is probably using 1 CB for all of the outlets and that means your compressor is sharing the same Power- not an ideal set up.

[Broccoli1]

Or the receptacle to a 5-20R, but changing the plug gives you a little more versatility as to where you use the machine.;)

Yup- but like ya said he needs to check the wiring and CB:)

Don't know the exact NEC codes for de-rating the Outlet for the duty cycle of the 400 but I think he's got a bigger problem with the geerage sharing a CB.

My little 125c needs juice.

[bdog_v]

Thanks for all the info it really helped! Especially the diagrams. I checked the CB there are two of them in the garage in the same box and 4 screw in fuses, most of them say 30 amp on them, I believe one said 20 amp. I am not an electrician so I can't really give any more info. then that. I did not find any gauge rating on any of the wires running out of the box. I do know I have run the Hobart 135 Mig welder on all of the outlets for years now without ever blowing any fuses and plenty of juice for welding.

-I am hoping to find an adapter tomorrow at the hardware store if not I guess I will have to cut off the end and wire up a standard plug......

Thanks again..any other thoughts?????

[willness33]

Thanks for all the info it really helped! Especially the diagrams. I checked the CB there are two of them in the garage in the same box and 4 screw in fuses, most of them say 30 amp on them, I believe one said 20 amp. I am not an electrician so I can't really give any more info. then that. I did not find any gauge rating on any of the wires running out of the box. I do know I have run the Hobart 135 Mig welder on all of the outlets for years now without ever blowing any fuses and plenty of juice for welding.

-I am hoping to find an adapter tomorrow at the hardware store if not I guess I will have to cut off the end and wire up a standard plug......

Thanks again..any other thoughts?????

Broccoli brought up a good point with running the cutter and compressor on the same circuit. Probably won't work real well. I'd start pulling fuses and and shutting off breakers and see which outlets go dead. If you, in fact, have more than one circuit in the garage, run the cutter and compressor off of different circuits. You're probably not going to find any adapters for the cord. The best you can hope for is a heavy duty "Yellow Jacket" brand extension cord with a 5-20R receptacle on one end and the standard 5-15 P plug on the other end. You can get a 25' Yellow Jacket cord at any Lowe's store for around $25, IIRC. If you can't find an extension cord of that type, you're left with cutting the cord or replacing one of the receptacles.

[hankj]

What're youse smokin'?

The "110V" plug described is an obsolete two-blade outlet. No ground. These ole' timers didn't consider the modern, "green" ground, as they were based on the grounded conductor as the safety ground, which has been well proven to be an erronious assumption!

The three conductor plug that our OP is unfamiliar with has been the code approved arrangement for so long, I forget when it was introduced, but I believe it was in the late 1950's.

Since the OP's dwelling has no equipment grounding system, I would advise him to replace the two-blade outlet with a current code 3-prong, and wire the ground terminal to the white (neutral) terminal. At least, this will ground the chassis of the welder.

If he just cuts off the ground pin, or swaps out the plug for a two-prong, he will eleiminate any chance of protection from a ground fault to the machine's case.

The best solution would be to update the house wiring to code, but I'm guessing he ain't gonna go there.

Hank

[Broccoli1]

Hank,

Good call iffin' he does have just the 2-prong outlet.

I made the assumption that he had a 15amp 3-prong outlet as he didn't mention the original outlet having only 2 as well as him describing the 5-20p that is on the machine.
:)

Edit- Hank, he said he has been using a HH135 so I imagine he has 5-15 Outlets.

[Sberry]

I wouldnt jumper a ground, big code no-no. If he has a 2 wire system he can put in a GFCI recept to use a 3 prong outlet.

[willness33]

Hank,

Good call iffin' he does have just the 2-prong outlet.

I made the assumption that he had a 15amp 3-prong outlet as he didn't mention the original outlet having only 2 as well as him describing the 5-20p that is on the machine.
:)

Edit- Hank, he said he has been using a HH135 so I imagine he has 5-15 Outlets.

I know it's a little late, but this was my line of thinking also.;)