RichT
07-15-2008, 11:36 PM
My latest DIY project. The trick on this one was the Kubota B26 FEL (front end loader) has a bolt-on edge which, with conventional toothbars, has to be removed to mount the toothbar. So I set out to design/fabricate one which didn't require removal.
Design: Decided on 7 tooth configuration with 3/8 plate 3" wide crossbar. The crossbar would have to clear the bolt-on edge bolts and top weld, sit just behind the top weld (pic1). This required shanks with sufficient length to span at least a couple inches of crossbar width (welding area), and still fit over the bolt-on edge. I made a cardboard mockup of the lower FEL lip & bolt-on edge, then researched shanks at the Fabco website. This website has shank pictures and dimensions. Selected a couple candidates that looked like they might work and made cardboard mockups of them as well. Fitting the mockups together determined that Fabco 2A Series Shank #15625 was very close.
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/initialfit.jpg
Cost: I used a Canadian company (Terra Cut Supply Ltd) to buy the shanks/teeth (8002A-C)/pins (RP-H2A). Their prices were lower than US distributors and the parts were shipped directly from Fabco anyway. While placing the order with the salesman he asked me how far I was from Costa Mesa CA (about 30mi). Turns out he had just put a down payment on a BMW at a Costa Mesa dealer. So he asks if I could inspect the car and, in return, they would eat the cost of the parts I ordered. So total cost of the toothbar: ~$30. Even with the cost of the shank parts the total would have been well below $200. Special toothbars for bolt-on edges run anywhere from $500-$800 and no guarantee of an exact fit.
Assembly: fabricated the side panels from 1/4 plate, then tack welded a couple shanks to the crossbar to check fit. Had to grind just a bit off the top corner of the bolt-on edge just where the shanks overlap to get a nearly perfect, straight fit. All looked good, so I welded (HH187, .035 with C25) it up (pic2), attached the teeth (lesson learned - attach the teeth BEFORE welding the shanks), primed (pic3), finish coat (Rustoleum gloss black) (pic4), then mounted on the FEL (pic5). Oh yea, and reinforced the FEL holes.
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/shankweld_close.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/prime.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/topcoat.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/final_mount.jpg
Design: Decided on 7 tooth configuration with 3/8 plate 3" wide crossbar. The crossbar would have to clear the bolt-on edge bolts and top weld, sit just behind the top weld (pic1). This required shanks with sufficient length to span at least a couple inches of crossbar width (welding area), and still fit over the bolt-on edge. I made a cardboard mockup of the lower FEL lip & bolt-on edge, then researched shanks at the Fabco website. This website has shank pictures and dimensions. Selected a couple candidates that looked like they might work and made cardboard mockups of them as well. Fitting the mockups together determined that Fabco 2A Series Shank #15625 was very close.
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/initialfit.jpg
Cost: I used a Canadian company (Terra Cut Supply Ltd) to buy the shanks/teeth (8002A-C)/pins (RP-H2A). Their prices were lower than US distributors and the parts were shipped directly from Fabco anyway. While placing the order with the salesman he asked me how far I was from Costa Mesa CA (about 30mi). Turns out he had just put a down payment on a BMW at a Costa Mesa dealer. So he asks if I could inspect the car and, in return, they would eat the cost of the parts I ordered. So total cost of the toothbar: ~$30. Even with the cost of the shank parts the total would have been well below $200. Special toothbars for bolt-on edges run anywhere from $500-$800 and no guarantee of an exact fit.
Assembly: fabricated the side panels from 1/4 plate, then tack welded a couple shanks to the crossbar to check fit. Had to grind just a bit off the top corner of the bolt-on edge just where the shanks overlap to get a nearly perfect, straight fit. All looked good, so I welded (HH187, .035 with C25) it up (pic2), attached the teeth (lesson learned - attach the teeth BEFORE welding the shanks), primed (pic3), finish coat (Rustoleum gloss black) (pic4), then mounted on the FEL (pic5). Oh yea, and reinforced the FEL holes.
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/shankweld_close.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/prime.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/topcoat.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/runnernest/Tractor/final_mount.jpg