Cheap Jeep?

[rjmenke]

I'm new to the forum and to welding and would like some advice on purchasing a machine.

I was recently given a jeep cj-7 that has rust issues. i am thinking about a cheap welder in the $300 range to tackle this among other things. i have access to a stick welder for anything over 3/16. The patch panels i have seen are 19 ga. I was going to tack in the patch and use body filler, so as not to warp the metal with a continuous bead.

Splatter isnt an issue, since i have to grind and sand anyway.

I have a gift card to tractor supply and have found these machines:
Hobart 125 EZ $330 18ga - 3/16
Maxus 125 $320 18 - 3/16
Farmhand Mig $269 rated 24ga to 3/16. not sure about that.
Farmhand Flux $169 pobably not the best choice, but with a grinder...

Tool king has a refurb Hobart handler 125 that Hobart states will weld 20ga with flux core. it only runs $260 and is really appealing. Shipping is cheap also.

Thanks, and if anyone offers you a free jeep, there is no such thing.

Roy

[stevinator]

I have a 125 ez and love it but I don't think the guys would say it is a real great welder for body panels.I don't use it for that so I can't say.Most would probably say use gas and a smaller solid wire.

[Sberry]

I agree, none of the above for body work and continuous beads are good to seal out water. The Farmhand is pretty much junk, TSC shoots themselves in the foot with that. 5% of their welder sales and 95% of their problems.

[Sberry]

A guy buys one of those and a roll of cored wire and its the last thing he buys, he buys a Hobart and spends another 500 to go with it because it works so well, but some accountant likes the Farmhand because of the margins, it cost them 59 and they sell it for 169. Seems good at first glance.

[Skwerly]

Hahaha I know all about the cheap Jeep thing - I'm in a Cherokee club, and run into these "deals" all the time!

Good luck bud!!

OH, if you want general Jeep tips or whatever, check out the club, good guys on it!

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/791553/naxja_official_jeep_cherokee_club.html?cat=27

[rjmenke]

Thanks guys. I figured as much on the Farm Hand, but had seen some pictures of people using them for floor pans, etc.

I think I may go with the handler 125 (not the ez). Northern Tools has a 'mig 125' that looks interesting, but for the same money I can buy the refurbished Hobart. Hobart's website says that with gas, it will work on 22 gauge. I'm pretty sure the jeep's skin is thicker than that. I have other uses for it other than the body work.

Does anyone have experience with 3M's panel adhesive? If it works well, I may only need a welder inside the tub where the roll bars attach. I guess I could use Por-15 on the holes in the sides and cover them with rocker guards, but I really prefer to keep it some what original.

The Jeep only has 47,000 miles but they are hard miles. Here are some pics as to what I am trying to repair.

[mudbug]

That ain't rust holes...those are drain holes for when you hit deep water. If you got that for cheap you made out. If you don't remove the rust it will continue to grow...isn't that why you want the welder? You can either buy patch panels or make them,since most Jeep panels are flat anyway.You'll spend more time on your learning curve for welding sheetmetal than you will on those patches. Find an old ford truck hood and practice on it,but cut your patch panels out of it first.

If you get the HH125 from Tool King there are three models of the 125--one is the EZ 125(flux core only) one HH125 is flux core only(it can be converted to gas +$100) and one HH125 that is gas ready out of the box.If you can get the one that has the gas solenoid in it from them you will be ahead in the long run if you intend to use gas. They usually have them in stock.

[Broccoli1]

Where are you located?

[rjmenke]

Thanks, Mudbug. Yeah, got it for free. The friend of mine wanted to use the shed it was in to put his new skid loader, and he was tired of messing with the jeep. It has issues, but all are entirely fixable, and most have been fixed. I had one just like it 20 years ago. I could have paid $2,000 for it and still have the same issues, so I feel like I'm ahead of the curve. I was going to cut out the rust whether I used adhesives or welded it, then coat the area with Por-15 or similar. I have experience (a little) with stick welding but wire is new.

Broccoli1, I live in Pearsall, Texas, about an hour south of San Antonio.

[willness33]

I've seen much worse jeeps cost a good bit more than free. You got a good deal. If you run into any problems, PM me. Jeeps are my thing.;)

[Broccoli1]

RJ,

Contact member DDA52 he is in Bulverde, tx.-

He mentioned selling his MM135.

Don't know price but it will be good machine from a good guy.

[hideandseek]

you dont have a rust problem! I have one! :D this is a 46 cj2a I am fixing to get deep off into. bought a MM DVI2 just for it.

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/1483/46cj2a005qy1.jpg

[willness33]

I see this thread bringing out all of the jeepers that wouldn't normally post here.:D I love it.

[mudbug]

I thought the same thing---Jeeps(or 4x4's) & welding seem to go hand in hand.

I've got a CJ-6,CJ2A,Jeepster,M422A-1,M-37,& an old flatfender Powerwagon ---and they all need welding somewhere.The M422A-1 Mighty-Mite is the challenge--It's aluminum!!--but it's straight.

The nature of the beast or just their age I guess.

[rjmenke]

Well, I might as well take credit for it.........

I had a jeep identical to the one I have now for 13 years. Sold it 13 years ago, regretted it, but it was a losing battle. I guess I am re-living my youth (40 going on 17). But instead of looking for that nearest mud puddle, I am fixing it up so my wife and 3 year old daughter and I can go goof off. If they still make gas in 13 years, I have her first car taken care of, unless I don't find another one first (provided I can afford to fill it up).

Come to think of it, we used to weld that old thing back together in my brother's shop class every Monday back in high school. It seems CJ's all break and rust out in the same places.

Thanks for the replies. Hideandseek appears to have me beat......

[willness33]

It seems CJ's all break and rust out in the same places.


All the ones I've ever owned or worked on do.;)

[hideandseek]

[ Hideandseek appears to have me beat......[/QUOTE]

LOL you only saw a little of it. I pulled the tub off the frame this weekend and the thought of WHAT HAVE I GOT INTO!" came to mind :D but it should be fun and it will run one day! I hope! LOL

[BMB]

That's the normal spots for rust.

Then vertical channel that runs behind the door opening has a drain plug only accessable from underneath. Most people don't even know it's there. So, moisture builds up in the channel until it rust the front of the rear wheel well and side of the body out.

There is a U channel in front of the door openings too, that can cause problems. Even though it is an open channel, it has a hole and gaps that can trap moisture between it and the body. The body will rust fro the inside out right in that area.


BMB

[metalmeltr]

My dad is a body man an he fixed a hole in one right below were JEEP is stamped into the panel that the door is bolted to.