Welder Idles but dosnt rev up so when i strike an Arc

[jimcaf]

Its a Miller Legend AEAD 200LE,,so far i put 12volts to the pull soleniod and its working it snaps back well and the ground is good there,I have continuity from the wire there back to the Auto Idle Module,and i have continuity across the breakers,,Am i safe to assume the Auto Idle Module is bad?

[liston336]

Its a Miller Legend AEAD 200LE,,so far i put 12volts to the pull soleniod and its working it snaps back well and the ground is good there,I have continuity from the wire there back to the Auto Idle Module,and i have continuity across the breakers,,Am i safe to assume the Auto Idle Module is bad?
I don't want to insult your intelligence but is the idle lock switch in the off position? If it does not affect the idle. then check these things. Your CT1 / hall device, CR2 for a bad coil or connections. Both of these sense current and will affect the idle module. Since I don't know the year/serial number of your machine I am just going off a Legend 200 schematic.

[jimcaf]

HI Liston,,,thanks for the responce,,no insult taken,,i need all the help i can get inside this thing,,,my serial #JJ327706,,,i believe its an 1988 vintage,,

I just got a repair manual forwarded to me from miller,,so far iv only tested the throttle pull solenoid and swaped out a relay i found inline with the idle board,still no change,
I will tomorrow check the CT1 and CR2 for continuity,,thanks jim

[ventureline]

Just worked on one, of the same vintage, for future reference on the idle circuit.

idle board located right behind the lower front panel.

B is power in run

C runs to the throttle solinoid and to the idle on off switch. This is a ground circuit to your solinoid activated by the board or by the switch

D live all the time when unit in run mode

J ground circuit

G & H are the pick ups to operate the board.

Now what generally happens is one or both of the controlling scrs (the 2 little 8 amp 200 volt square thingys in the center of the fingered colling tower ) This is pretty much the only thing that goes wrong with these units, I install a set of 25 amp 400Volt units in there place.

Sometime a UJT (unijuction transistor) fails thats the transistor looking part in the corner of the board, but not often.

[jimcaf]

Well I give up,,,Im not able to figure this out,,can i put a PTO cable on the throttle and pull up the RPMs when i weld? right now i have the idle set where i get 110volts for my grinders,lights ect,,,thanks jim

[jimcaf]

Got it!!!,,turned out being a circuit breaker,,its suppose to automatically reset,,i guess its shot,,,i just put an inline fuse and its pulling up the RPM s and welding like a champ again,,,thanks again for the responses,,,,jim

[Steve Crum]

Got it!!!,,turned out being a circuit breaker,,its suppose to automatically reset,,i guess its shot,,,i just put an inline fuse and its pulling up the RPM s and welding like a champ again,,,thanks again for the responses,,,,jim

You may want to get a new auto reset circuit breaker from an auto supply like NAPA to replace the old one. These are used on trailer brake systems etc. and are available in various amperages. Might be a good idea to look your system over and see if there is any obvious reason the breaker would kick to start with. Probably the old one failed due to age, weathering or physical damage. A fuse is a PITA especially if your a lotta miles from the nearest supply house and you forgot to make sure you have spares!