Rebuild of Craftsman Torch

[GeorgeG]

In general what material can be used for valve stem packing?

[CF1975]

George,

Just a shot in the dark, but would Teflon (PTFE) work? Will you be fabricating the packing insert? Hope everything works out well.

-Chuck

[GeorgeG]

I'm guessing it could. Any thoughts on how to go about making one? Are there any parts that can be bought for an old Craftsman torch model 624.54741?

[Hammack_Welding]

I don't know the model you are refering to, but someone made the torch for Sears. Probably Airco or Victor. What kind of tips does it use? I'd bet you can still get parts for it. Check with your local welding distributor.

[weldgault]

In general what material can be used for valve stem packing?

If you don't have a breakdown or experience in repairing. I would not be a good idea to start, they are dangerous. John

[GeorgeG]

The tip is kind of like a Victor but not exactly the same dimensions, as far as I can tell.
Maybe a trip down to one of my LWS would be worth it.
I wish I could get my hands on a manual for this. I'll keep an eye on eBay.

[CF1975]

George,

Just for grins, did you try Craftsman parts direct? You probably won't be able to find it online, but I would give them a call. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelActionHome!retrieve.action;jsessionid =TUj7Ol0a9O1liTU4zPmTgw**.shcapp3106?modelNumber=6 24.54741&pop=flush

[GeorgeG]

You're right. They aren't any help. Sears is changing fast, and not for the better.

[CF1975]

You got that right...of course, seems like all the good names you could trust are reducing their quality and service, and putting their label on just about everything. Speaking of quality:rolleyes:, Harbor Freight has a decent, very complete set for a little under $200. I have one and really like it. I guess I am being a little contradictory, talking about American quality, then buying foreign stuff....guess we are all stuck in that cycle. Best of luck with the Sears one, though, maybe a decent shop will be able to help you.

-Chuck

[Aerometalworker]

In general what material can be used for valve stem packing?


George,
In general mechanical grade PTFE is used to rebuild the old torch valve packings. Its got slightly better strength properties then the pure PTFE barstock and is what is used in current designs. Use NO cutting lubricants, and polish the valve stems with 1000 grit paper in the lathe. Clean all the bits oil free of course before assembly. You can lubricate the packings, and valve stem threads with a product made by Dow Corning called "High Vacuum Grease". Its a 100% pure silicone lubricant approved for pure oxygen environments and used by some of the current torch makers.

As a note, you will most likely have to ream the ID of the seal, drilling can leave a score in the ID and form a leak path, shoot for line-to-line to a .001" interference fit between the packing and the stem as an initial fit. MSC has reamers in .001 increments in a lot of sizes if you need them.

Unfortunately if you make your own parts, you now have liability if you sell someone the torch in a few years and they get hurt from a failure. I mostly work on antiques and never sell or do work for other people.

P.S. As far as who made your torch, Sears contracted with Harris, Airco, Marquette and for a short time actually had their own design and make. If you have a picture of the mixer we can probably identify it.

-Aaron

[GeorgeG]

Wow, you're the man
I was hoping to hear from. Some questions:
1.) What are you starting with in terms of teflon - a sheet I'm guessing. How thick?
2.) Would graphite or teflon tape or teflon string packing be no good? Actually, I can't see much of anything in there now. Just some traces of what looks like graphite on the sealing ends of the stem (hard for me to describe).
3.) What is the mixer? Must be the Blowtube where the tip attaches, right?

I can attach some photos on my next post.

[Aerometalworker]

Wow, you're the man
I was hoping to hear from. Some questions:
1.) What are you starting with in terms of teflon - a sheet I'm guessing. How thick?
2.) Would graphite or teflon tape or teflon string packing be no good? Actually, I can't see much of anything in there now. Just some traces of what looks like graphite on the sealing ends of the stem (hard for me to describe).
3.) What is the mixer? Must be the Blowtube where the tip attaches, right?

I can attach some photos on my next post.

George,
1) round bar stock, turned to fit the dimensions of the original fiber packing. Usually they end up looking like a washer with one side having a slight taper to aid in "crushing" the packing against the stem.
2)ehh stay away from it.

3) the mixer is between the head pipe (normally copper based material) and the handle.

If you dont have access to a precision lathe, I would not attempt this. There isnt much forgiveness in these solid teflon packings. Done right they are beautiful, done wrong and its mighty hot to adjust your valves.

-Aaron

[GeorgeG]

Aaron,
Here's a few photos for you to look at.
There is a brass washer around the stem now. It slides up as far as the threads. Could that be what you are talking about made out of teflon?
Also, can you ID the manufacturer from the mixer design?

[weldgault]

Aaron,
Here's a few photos for you to look at.
There is a brass washer around the stem now. It slides up as far as the threads. Could that be what you are talking about made out of teflon?
Also, can you ID the manufacturer from the mixer design?



The safe and simple answer it Just Don't Do It. John

[GeorgeG]

I saw your earlier post. Thanks for your concern.

[Aerometalworker]

Aaron,
Here's a few photos for you to look at.
There is a brass washer around the stem now. It slides up as far as the threads. Could that be what you are talking about made out of teflon?
Also, can you ID the manufacturer from the mixer design?


George,
Actually the packing goes between the washer and the gland nut. You have to remove the knob from the stem, most are pressed on with a straight knurl on the valve stem. I have a fixture that uses a split collar and draw bar to pull the stems from the knobs, something similiar can be made quite easily. Keep in mind, many times the thread pitch on the valve stems is 32tpi reguardless of stem diameter, this is an engineering thread. As far as the torch brand, It looks very similiar to an older purox setup im my collection, could you take the OD of the large and small o-ring grooves on the mixer? If you are feeling uncomfortable doing this kind of work ( it is a bit fragile ), I would think many repair shops would overhaul the valves for you.

-Aaron

[GeorgeG]

I won't be happy until I've seen this through myself. Just a hobby for a retired engineer. I realized a long time ago I should have gotten a degree in mechanical engineering instead of chemical.
The o-ring grooves are 0.5" and 0.2"

[Sandy]

Give these folks a look.

https://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/repairparts.php

[GeorgeG]

Thanks for the link, Sandy. I had sent an email to them once before and didn't get a reply yet; but I'll be more persistent. Have you dealt with them before?

[Sandy]

Thanks for the link, Sandy. I had sent an email to them once before and didn't get a reply yet; but I'll be more persistent. Have you dealt with them before?

No I sure haven't. It's one of those snagged links from another post from the past. :)

[jay77smith]

I just accumulated one of these torches, I had a good flame coming out with just the outter case of the tip, just to see if it worked at all, I can't seem to find a propane tip for it, I am either looking for a propane tip or I would sell the whole torch head, I would say it's in good shape. E-mail me directly to jay77smith@amerytel.net with any and all info questions etc. Jay