Welding body parts

[Jaxom]

Got this rust bucket S10, and while I know I need to keep working on making it a safe and reliable commuter, I'm just itching to work on some of the body rust issues. I reminded of this daily now, 'cause when I drive it, the driver's side door is so bad, if you don't flip the latch opening relase down and lock the door, it pops open on you while driving. Then today, was out doing some errons and my tail gate falls off. Heck I don't even think there's enough of it left to repair, think I'm looking at getting a whole knew one.

Now, before I even touch a replacment panel or start cutting sheet to fix a hole. I'ld like to get some advice on some things. While in welding class, our instructor never had us working on any coupons other then stuff that was either 3/8" or 1/4" thick. I've never worked on thin sheet before.

I would assume that I should start out with the lowest voltage, but what would you recommend for wire speed. How about gas flow. I am working in a garage, so I don't have to worry about wind, so unless someone says doing flux core comes out better, I'll assume mig is the way to go. Also, is there a particular type of wire that stands out as being better for body work? Other then the samples spools of wire that came with my weld pak, that's all the wire I have.

I'd also like to get some pointers on other body tools I will need as well. Few years back I bought a nice large protable compressor. Will run just about anything, including a spray gun. For cutting out rusty parts I'm looking at sheers, nibblers or even using a grinder with a cut off wheel. Any other suggestions. Or suggestions on where I can get good info on doing body work in general, either on the net or in a book?

Thanks,

jax

[MXtras]

Not sure if these will answer your questions, but take a look at these threads:

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=15604
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=15747


Scott

[boykjo]

Got this rust bucket S10, and while I know I need to keep working on making it a safe and reliable commuter, I'm just itching to work on some of the body rust issues. I reminded of this daily now, 'cause when I drive it, the driver's side door is so bad, if you don't flip the latch opening relase down and lock the door, it pops open on you while driving. Then today, was out doing some errons and my tail gate falls off. Heck I don't even think there's enough of it left to repair, think I'm looking at getting a whole knew one. jax

From my experience it is miserable (welding) on old rusty cars!!!!!!!!!! I would find another s10 on CL and swap the motor and tranny unless you just want to have fun until it isnt funny anymore..........

Good luck...:cool:

[Hotfoot]

Boy, I agree with Boykjo...and you will never end up with a final product worth the effort, time, and money you put in! Those old rust buckets are also in need of far more serious help than cosmetic. When the door is flying ope, that means the body is twisting, and the whole cab probably need to have the mounts (not just the rubber parts) carefully looked at. Drive it into the dirt, saving up your money for a solid body sitting on a sold frame to start with.
I know these aren't the answers you are looking for, but we speak the truth!:)

[professur]

Measure, brace, cut, weld. Is yours a first or second generation S-10?

[poolie_p]

There are alot of places online to buy all the sheet metal for that truck cheap. The trick is spotwelding it all back together.http://www.lmctruck.com/ is a good place to start.

[Jaxom]

Ordered my LMC cataloge two weeks ago, can't wait till it gets here! ABout the door. The previous owner snapped off the door key in the lock and I don't think he knew what he was doing when he swapped out locking mechanisms. So the locking isn't latching onto the "peg" that's in the frame.

Honestly, I think this was hit, atleast once. It drives straight, so I don't think there's any frame ****age, but due to a really bad paint job and a few chips, I can tell the driver's side door was orginally blue and the left front quarter panel was once red. Also, besides the lock not working the window on the driver's side doesn't roll up or down. I made the mistake of wanting to adjust my mirror the day I bought it, took me two hours and some cussing while I dismantled the whole door to get the glass back up.

It is a real beater. However, due to some more peronsal isuess that have came up. It looks like this beater and I will be stuck with one and other for a year or three atlest. I figure what the heck I can at least get some experience welding and stuff while I sort out these personal and financial issues. Mind you, while I orginally had visions of grandure and doing a restore/mod on this vehicle, as for now I'd be happy to just make it a reliable commuter and one isn't 80% rust.

Trust me, I do apperciate you honest about this truck. Financially though I just cannot dump it right now. A year without work while taking care of my mother, causing me to be 1000's of dollars in arears on all my bills and a recient repo on my record, there's no chance in satan's pardise that I can get financed for a paper clip. Why would I want to put money into this rust heap then? Well, it'll keep me from going nuts. Work out some anger managment issues about the situation I'm in. Always looking at the bright side of things, who knows, my experience working on this hunk of junk might even help me land a job in a body shop!

Jax

[Jaxom]

First generation. 1988 with 2.8l engine, five speed auto tranny, part time 4 wheel drive. Extended cab.

[professur]

Let's see, you're going to need floor pans, rockers, body mounts, and some extra 20ga for fixing the toe boards and kick panel ... that about right? If you're going to do it on frame, try this. Loosen the bed and slide it back six inches. Then pull off the fenders. Are your door gaps straight? If so, skip ahead. If not, you're going to have to lift the cab a bit until they are. Find a couple of still solid points front and back and slowly jack it up until the gaps match. Then tack supports from the frame to the outside of the firewall and back wall of the cab. That'll keep everything from shifting. Then open the doors and weld in a sideways A from window height on the b pillar straight across to the same height on the A pillar, and back down to under the latch on the b pillar again ... presuming that's all good metal in those areas. If your cab is really wobbly, you might want to go with a couple of braces from the high points on the a pillars across to the low point on the opposite b pillar. The only time you've put too much bracing is if you can't get to where you need to work. Then start cutting and replacing.

[usmcpop]

Forgive me Jax, but every time I see the thread title "Welding body parts" I have to laugh. My kid is taking several welding classes concurrently and even though he hasn't welded any of his body parts yet, I think he did slightly catch on fire once. LOL. :rolleyes:

[Jaxom]

usmcpop,

LOL!!! I needed a good laught today! thanks!!!

professur,

You did what to who? Ya lost me on this one. The majority of the rust on this beater is on the bed. The two front quarter panels have rust spots where the S-10 medalian went and was removed and never replaced. And there is a bit of rust at the very lowest panel at the bottom of the extended cab area.

I'll probably have to take the bed off. The area on the bed side between the cab and bed is rusted out. Can't think of a way to get up in there to do any welding without taking the bed completely off.

Which kinda leads me to another question. I seen some one once built a frame of sorts to hold large body parts so you can work on them. It has some sort of movable axis, so you could sping the body around at all different angles too. Anyone recall if that was on this forum and if so what it was under?

[Hotfoot]

I took the bed off and re-installed it on a Chevy C 10, and also on my F150. Did it single handed, and it was a snap. Just unbolt, disconnect lights, make sure gas filler connections are free. Drive under tree limb or other overhead (garage rafter, etc. capable of holding 250 pounds (they are not heavy). :) Mount straps , chains, whatever to the four corners...find a balance point and a simple cable Come A-Long will lift it right off. Drive truck away, lower onto some saw horses.:)

[Jaxom]

Undertand what you're talking about hotfoot. I live in the city, so I'd prob have to rig a hoist or something. it's small enough, can handle by myself.

Since I'm not sure what you would call the thing. Picture a large engine stand that can rotate around so you can work on the sides, bottom, ect. Only this one was for working on large body assemblies, like a cab, or bed.

I think I seen it on here, but I'm not sure where to to begin looking for it, because I'm not sure what the person called it. Think the person used some 2x2" sqaure tube on casters so they could move it around their gararge. I just need to see the pic, so I can figure out how they made it swivel and then lock in possition so I can grind, cut, weld, sand, paint, ect with less difficulty.

[Zrexxer]

My kid is taking several welding classes concurrently and even though he hasn't welded any of his body partsCan't advise it... hurts like ****, takes a long time to heal, and the results aren't that satisfactory anyway :p
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=25889&stc=1&d=1205643880

[Jaxom]

Zrexxer!!!! Buddy! what the heck!!! I'm cringing just lookin' at that!

FYI, just came online after spending a bit of time researching that lift I was talking about. They call 'em "autobody rotissaries". First I found a couple of companies that sold them (for outragious prices), then I did a search for plans. Pretty straight forward. Some square tubing as I mentioned, some round for an axle arrangement. If you want to get really fancy you can build in some long arm hydrolic rams for adjusting hieght. I just have to figure out how to adapt this to work with just the bed of my truck. Most of the plans have you bolting the rotissary to the frame.

If anyone else is interested, I can post a few links later. Right now my eyes have gone blurry doing hours of googling. Need to hit the sack!

Jax

[Hotfoot]

Jaxom: What you are talking about is called a Turntable, it can built for the whole truck, but its typically done for a cab and chassis. Al fluids would have to be remover to rotate an entire vehicle...have you considered a walk under lift instead?...or, as we did in the 50's...roll the car onto its side (three or four guys rock it till it rolls...then roll it back when finished)...plays heck on some body panels, but, with some hay bales placed along the receiving side, doesn't mess up the body as much as one might think...now those hay bales...oil and gas draining out...talk about Burning Man!!!

Zrexxer: that "Handi-Weld" looks like it was incurred a bit on the cold side. I think he should try it again, going for a deep root pass with slower travel and more heat...or wear better gloves and avoid such misery...It does look like something I manage to do about every two months or so!!...:p

[Spook2]

Zrexxer!!!! Buddy! what the heck!!! I'm cringing just lookin' at that!

FYI, just came online after spending a bit of time researching that lift I was talking about. They call 'em "autobody rotissaries". First I found a couple of companies that sold them (for outragious prices), then I did a search for plans. Pretty straight forward. Some square tubing as I mentioned, some round for an axle arrangement. If you want to get really fancy you can build in some long arm hydrolic rams for adjusting hieght. I just have to figure out how to adapt this to work with just the bed of my truck. Most of the plans have you bolting the rotissary to the frame.

If anyone else is interested, I can post a few links later. Right now my eyes have gone blurry doing hours of googling. Need to hit the sack!

Jax



Most of the time the rotisseries are extremely adjustable and would have no trouble bolting to just the truck bed. I have one on my computer somewhere that should fit the bill without too much trouble. There aren't any plans so to speak but if you are of a mind to you could build it just from the photo. Looks to me like someone bought a couple of engine stands as the basis and hack/fabbed from there. If you want it shoot me an email addy via PM and I'll get it sent off to you.

[Broccoli1]

Kinda hard to drive once they are on the Rotisserie -

[boykjo]

Can't advise it... hurts like ****, takes a long time to heal, and the results aren't that satisfactory anyway :

Ouch!!!!!!Thats one hot looking state of Forida flipped over the other way!!:D

[Jaxom]

Found a few plans for that rotisssarie thingie. Just didn't feel like posting them the other day. I'm probably gonna have to build something like a cross between a body cradle and a rotissarie. That's if I even build the thing. That's alot of work/metal to invest into something I'll only use once.

[FarmallMan]

Can anyone recommend a good book on the topic?

Nick :cool: