Judge my welds please! Pictures included

[scapegoat]

These are done with a stickmate ac/dc. They were both on DECP. The welds on the left are done with 1/8" 6011 at about 85 amps. The welds on the right are done with 1/8" 7018 at about 115 amps. I attended an accelerated welding course last winter. I burnt about 700 7018 rods. I havent welded since then until tonight. I would like some honest opinions with my welds. I plan on finding a welding job and would like to know where I stand as a weldor. This is the biggest piture they will allow on here. So I am sorry for the poor picture

[injun joe]

well for the most part they will work but on the 6011 i reccomend ac and about 90 to 100 amps and i say this is because it produces a ''prettier'' bead and start your puddle move a head 1/2'' then comeback to the puddle then just keep repeating that and it will greatly improve and slow down a bit you know your going to fast when you can see the very distinctive v shape in the bead. for the 7018 just go a little slower but keep practicing :D:D

[Sberry]

Most stick welding jobs require out of position work. Vert and overhead is where its at.

[Sberry]

Just for giggles while I can remember where they are at. I think the first is the backside of the second pic with some old rods, the machine was 10A too high. 1/4 inch open butt, no bevel.
My little cracker box is really hot according to the dial but I have a good power supply. I would like the Stickmate type dial for this type of work, in these ranges it could use some more variation. I did weld some with a DC generator the other day and it was nice to be able to tune it in. It seems old rods have the tendency to burn the flux to one side, I think they need a road trip and get rattled around in the truck a while.

[injun joe]

Just for giggles while I can remember where they are at. I think the first is the backside of the second pic with some old rods, the machine was 10A too high. 1/4 inch open butt, no bevel.
My little cracker box is really hot according to the dial but I have a good power supply. I would like the Stickmate type dial for this type of work, in these ranges it could use some more variation. I did weld some with a DC generator the other day and it was nice to be able to tune it in. It seems old rods have the tendency to burn the flux to one side, I think they need a road trip and get rattled around in the truck a while.

i dont understand the pics what are the positions?:confused:

[scapegoat]

But overall, do these welds look...decent for flat? I will try to do some vertical ups and downs and get some pictures of it. But as far as overhead goes...I will need some practice for that one:rolleyes:

[fillncap]

the welds look ok ish ,and they have got to hot,the problem you get when doing smallpad welds like those is the massive heat build up,the plate gets way way to hot if you try to do to much at once.looking at the size of that plate you would be better turning the amps down a bit after the first complete layer,as you progress you may need let the piece cool down a little.
when the work piece is so hot you can get defects what we call over here in the uk as "pipes" (almost like worm tunnels)this is were the hot gases from the plate and solidified weld deposit rise up threw the molted weld pool.
you may also get stop start porosity when restriking lo hi electrodes.

kind regards fnc

[Sberry]

Joe, these are all uphill,, like I said the machine and the plates were way too hot on the first 2. My intent here isn't about perfect but an example of the types of things that can be done. This type of technique allows for puddle control, thin metals, root beads, just the right amount, a lot of general work can be done without adjusting the machine every 5 seconds. Here is a pic a little neater,, repeat. The second pic is a backside of one, a little bit of undercut but its 2 simple 1/4 plates or a gap a guy might find in the real world, makes for great penetration and a strong well fused joint.

[injun joe]

Joe, these are all uphill,, like I said the machine and the plates were way too hot on the first 2. My intent here isn't about perfect but an example of the types of things that can be done. This type of technique allows for puddle control, thin metals, root beads, just the right amount, a lot of general work can be done without adjusting the machine every 5 seconds. Here is a pic a little neater,, repeat. The second pic is a backside of one, a little bit of undercut but its 2 simple 1/4 plates or a gap a guy might find in the real world, makes for great penetration and a strong well fused joint.

yep no argument there about penetration..:D