Westward or Proto or Gearwrench sockets?

[whateg0]

I need to remove the door hinge screws on my '47. They are #3 Phillips head screws. At least that's what I think I remember seeing. They are 1/4" fine thread screws, which are supposed to be #3, if there is such a thing as a standard.

So, first can anybody confirm that this is likely to be correct for the size screw?

Second, I can get the bits as a 3/8" drive socket at Grainger. This is the only place I've actually seen them so far, except Sears. Anyway, Grainger carries the Proto and Westward brands. The Westward bit/socket is $5.30 and the Proto is $12.13. I was going to buy a couple because I'm going to try to loosen them with a 3/8" impact wrench, and my guess is one may break, at which point I may stop - dunno yet. Anyway, is the Proto twice the tool that the Westward bit is? BTW, Sears sells the Gearwrench branded bit/socket and wants $9.99 for it. The main advantage Sears has is that their open later, so I have a better chance of getting there in time. I'd like to try to get this today, so I can work on that tonight.

Thanks!

Dave

[Some Creep]

How about using the drive socket to turn these instead:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100325245

Then you have plenty of spares when one breaks.

Just an idea, I'm sure you thunked it already.....


*just noticed...they're TEK.....whatever that means for a #3 Phillips...

[gatkeper1]

You will most likely break thoses bits before the screw loosens using an impact gun. I always use a hand held hammer driven impact driver for those screws. If you want to just buy bits get those made for an impact driver.

[whateg0]

How about using the drive socket to turn these instead:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100325245

Then you have plenty of spares when one breaks.

Just an idea, I'm sure you thunked it already.....


*just noticed...they're TEK.....whatever that means for a #3 Phillips...

The reason that I didn't jump that way was they are only 1/4" bits. So, there'll be less material there than one of the 'real' sockets.

I think.

Uh, yeah. That's my story.

Dave

[whateg0]

You will most likely break thoses bits before the screw loosens using an impact gun. I always use a hand held hammer driven impact driver for those screws. If you want to just buy bits get those made for an impact driver.

I wasn't sure about the hammer driven ones. I was afraid I would bend the door jam, or otherwise damage it. It won't matter on the bottom hinges, since I'll be cutting the lower section out to make room for the wheelwell, but I was a little concerned about the upper hinge. I don't have any of the bits here. Dad has the driver and the bits/sockets, etc., but the earliest I could get them will be on Saturday. I kinda need to have the doors off by then.

I'll go back and look for the bits by themselves.

Thanks!

Dave

[whateg0]

I may try some heat, but I'm not sure I can really get to much other than the head of the screw. I guess, if nothing else, I can always get out the trusty twist drill.

Dave

[JimDon]

Get yourself a can of Kroil and put it on the screws for a couple of days before you try to loosen them. You'll be surprised at how smoothly they'll come out after letting that stuff sit on them for awhile.
Jim Don

[whateg0]

I've been spraying them for about two weeks, or maybe just a week, and last night I put a Phillips bit socket on a ratchet and - well, nothing. So, I drilled them out. Well, actually, I just drilled deep enough to pop the heads off. And the doors are now off. I'll have to see how the whole thing is put together and may have to fabricate something, but that's okay. I may put together a hidden hinge, and then it won't matter what I did.

I was surprised how easily the screws drilled. They seemed very soft.

Anyway...

Thanks for all the help!!!

Dave