Undefeated Tig-bolt-removal 14 for 14

[vicegrip]

Bolts / even set-screws (the worst)
siezed on the way in .........!!
siezed on the way out..........!!
ripped clean off .....!!
sleazy-out broken off in the screw :eek:

420 filler & average toolroom skill.
haven't head one yet I couldn't get out

I'm even getting them a little str8er.
no more Easter Island effect ......

http://usera.imagecave.com/vicegrip/swordsstory/000_1849.JPG
getting better fussion right to the threads in the whole (2nd veiw)
http://usera.imagecave.com/vicegrip/swordsstory/000_1852.JPG

Accept when the moon is full

http://usera.imagecave.com/vicegrip/swordsstory/Copyof000_1659.JPGhttp://usera.imagecave.com/vicegrip/swordsstory/Copyof000_1661.JPG

VG

[TexHand]

I like the last 2 :D - Looks like something you'd find on a Hotfoot original ;)

[Rocky D]

Can ya give a little more info on your filler? Who makes it? I'm not familiar with 420

[vicegrip]

Can ya give a little more info on your filler? Who makes it? I'm not familiar with 420

I'll ask the resident mold-welding GuRu

it's for general repair of injection-mold cavities and cores.
Awesome hardness and toughness.

If I ever see another 1/2" impact in a scrap hopper I'm gonna tig a new square on it , and see if it works.

Phil

[usmcpop]

The last pic just goes to show that some caveman broke that stud off in there, LOL.

[vicegrip]

About half of these were heavily lock-tighted.

Tig won't take while the LocTite is burning away;
so I use a propane torch on light work, OR
O/A on heavy work, OR

when the screw is to broken-off to deep from the surface........
I get the tungsten dead-centered in the hole nearly touching the screw
and hit the peddal, just to start gass flow, then I start the arc, and hold it low and steady, this contaminates the tungsten, so once the LocTite is all burned away, I freshen-up, brush / blow-out the hole and start adding filler.

[556man]

I like the last 2 :D - Looks like something you'd find on a Hotfoot original ;)


I like the last 2 too. Looks like a Division Bell work there. "High Hopes" ;) Nice work Vicegrip and very good technique on removing broken bolts. Wish I had TIG. :(

556man

[Brianstick]

I've done that type of bolt removal before, but not down inside a hole. I'm afraid to try one inside a hole because I don't want to make the problem worse.

[Brianstick]

Visegrip, suppose you have a 1/4-20 bolt that is broken off 3/8 inch down inside the hole. Is it possible to tig down in there without touching the hole?

[vicegrip]

Visegrip, suppose you have a 1/4-20 bolt that is broken off 3/8 inch down inside the hole. Is it possible to tig down in there without touching the hole?

I used to take all this to the toolwelder where I used to work,
Now I'm doing it my self, that ugly wormy one is my deepest so far.
about .8" deep on 1/2-13.

The welder I refer to was much higher skilled , and even did 10-32's,
sometiimes a little deep.

[Brianstick]

Visegrip, what are you welding to the top of the blob? a T handle?

[vicegrip]

That's too much for me .

I do Vicegrips / piperench / serated vice jaws ===turn the part /
or grind flats and use a Cresent Rench
2nd from right bottom pic



It's easy to practice !!

just thread a bunch of holes in a plate and lock-nut some studs at different depths....turn it over and Bob's Yer Uncle

[Knowledgeworker]

I do like the art work on the last two pics. It does look like something of the Division Bell;). This is one area I would hate to have to do, but it is something I need to learn. All info on this is apreciated.

Jim

[uncrichie]

I always wondered how those Moai Statues on Easter Island were held into the ground. Now I know, they're screwed in!

[vicegrip]

I always wondered how those Moai Statues on Easter Island were held into the ground. Now I know, they're screwed in!


And I thouroughly enjoyed it.;)

[tspmax]

Try this one. Hope the photos go through. Here is a mold problem that I have. The first photo is one of an angle pin being pancaked by a +500 ton press at full force. What used to be an angular pin. The second photo is the lamina or wear plate almost pressed in two.

The bump towards the left is the hole impression that was made, where the pin should have gone into. We removed the pin and have to remove the body of the pin which is screwed into the base with a 10 or 12mm stud. My guys have already welded it 3 times. I had to let the mold go back into production running only 1 cavity (2 cavity mold). I think the impact has a lot to do with the pin not being easy to remove.

The 420 you are refering to is maybe 420SS welding rod?

[Rocky D]

Puts me in mind of the old penny on the railroad track trick..:D

[tspmax]

You got that right, this little penny didn't have a chance.

[vicegrip]

Try this one. Hope the photos go through. Here is a mold problem that I have. .................................................. .................................................. ....... I think the impact has a lot to do with the pin not being easy to remove.

The 420 you are refering to is maybe 420SS welding rod?
I beleive so ......going back friday , will ask.

On your (we call them pecker-pins) angular pin.
Look for PM.

Phil

[tigster]

to start the process, do you tig directly on the surface of the broken off screw, or do you melt rod and drop it onto the surface? and how do you clean the screw surface sufficiently? thanks.

[Rocky D]

Heat the screw surface to make sure you get fusion, then add rod...you can't always clean the stud, just hope it sticks.

[vicegrip]

to start the process, do you tig directly on the surface of the broken off screw, or do you melt rod and drop it onto the surface? and how do you clean the screw surface sufficiently? thanks.

I have had to use solvents and then air-blast them dry.
Then start tig'N on the stud surface.

Accept When LocTite was used.

Then I tig the stud gently untill I have burned away the Loctite.
This contaminates the tungsten , and several refreshes may be necessary.
But eventually the stud surface will accept filler.

You will not get good results sand-blasting,
even if you get a clean surface , the stud will likely jam again as it starts to turn.

VG

[Brianstick]

I just did 6 tig outs tonight. 3/8-16 thread, snapped off flush on 4 of them and 2 were recessed down about 1/4 inch. I used a 1/4-20 bolt, 2 and 1/2 inches long. Just centered it on the snapped off end and tigged it on with no filler metal. I think the heat helped to loosen it up also. Came right out with little resistance. I hope to try some harder ones sometime, that was challenging and that's what makes it fun.

[vicegrip]

I just did 6 tig outs tonight. 3/8-16 thread, snapped off flush on 4 of them and 2 were recessed down about 1/4 inch. I used a 1/4-20 bolt, 2 and 1/2 inches long. Just centered it on the snapped off end and tigged it on with no filler metal. I think the heat helped to loosen it up also. Came right out with little resistance. I hope to try some harder ones sometime, that was challenging and that's what makes it fun.

the heat helps to loosen it up

!! Absolutly ....Thats half the weapon !!
the stub trys to expand and can't so when it cools it shrinks.
Also the expansion attempt crushes rust and debriss in the threads.
Brian you just made this all worthwhile :cool:;):)

VG

[vicegrip]

At any one time , there appears to be more visit-ers ,
than contributing members , veiwing the forum.

Alot of pain could be spared , if more Tig-outs are attempted.
I would like to see one of you mig Gu-Ru's , try Mig-outs !!

Again , it may take some torch-applyed preheat (maybe not).
And a hit on some start-block to get the gass flowing.
And the transfer is more like globbular.

I haven't tried it , but seen it in a few shops over the years.
Done with good results on larger stubs , the trick looks to be to wet-into
as much of the surface as possible and not weld to the hole !!
Once fused in it gets easier just build up the stump.

The count won't get past 14 + Brian's 6 on my account,
since tomorrow I start for a company with an anchaint building .
Beautifull brick-walls, High-windows, millions of rivits, 150ton cranes
and work-peices that can need a spreader to use both cranes.

I will expand on that in the future (likely).
For now I need to get all dead serious ....to transition to the work
& it's challenges.

Dought broken coupling-studs & bolts will be involved ??
Happy Tig'N

vg

[Brianstick]

The tig outs that I did were a little different than usual. The ones I did were on lathe drive dogs that are used for driving work between centers. The bottom part of the thread was all mushroomed over so I had to screw it down through all the way out rather than coming outward like with a blind hole.

[tspmax]

Vice, Did you determine what 420 was?

[scotte]

maybe the "420" was refering to what he was smoking:rolleyes:

[Brianstick]

I think he meant 420 stainless.

[vicegrip]

Vice, Did you determine what 420 was?


I think he meant 420 stainless.

Yup
Box just says 420 ss.

works awesome.

[vicegrip]

Industrial strenght.........Tig-outs or mig or stick.
Say the stub is 2" or 3" in diameter.
Drill out 80% of the dia.

Apply an inner jacket of filler of choice to wall of hole.
Attach an extractor rod & weld to hole.
Or ......
Extract shrunken Stub.


http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p92/swadge/LargeT-Os.jpg
Why didn't I think of that.

[Pangea]

Pick up the hibachi with your forearms. It is time for you to leave Grasshopper.

;)

[vicegrip]

Pick up the hibachi with your forearms. It is time for you to leave Grasshopper.

;)

And maybe come by You ?:D
Know anything about this , Do you Grand-Master ?

Alstom to build new manufacturing facility in the US !!
http://www.alstom.com/pr_corp_v2/2007/corp/47492.EN.php?languageId=EN&dir=/pr_corp_v2/2007/corp/&idRubriqueCourante=23132

VG