Just starting

[metallurgy]

I got the torch and everything set up now, and after i finally got the acetylene to not leak, I tried actually welding. I was happy it didn't keep popping, now it comes down to just skill. Apparently it's something i'm lacking...

It was 1/8" mild steel the was rusty, but I also cleaned some parts. Much less sparks that way. I was using a #2 tip. I tried both forehand and backhand with the same results.

I started, and it took quite a while to heat up the steel to melting point, but i think that's normal. I'd start with a nice 1/4" puddle that wasn't too cold, but as i moved on, the puddle gets wide fast. An inch later it's 1/2", and i can't control it well then. I can't get enough filler to cover that area. You get the idea.

If anyone knows what's going wrong, tell me

thanks

[Broccoli1]

Start without filler first.

Clean the rust off the material.

Cut a couple coupons about 4 inches long 2"x4"x 1/8"

Tack one end, tack the other.

Go back to beginning and get your puddle started- it shouldn't take that long- 3-4 seconds- been a while-anyone else got a time?

Anyhoo- once you get the puddle started then push it along down the joint making small circles to wash the puddle across both pieces.

Once you get that down then start with adding filler.:)

[Knowledgeworker]

I am definetly not an expert at O/A welding. I thought I would share a bit of my experiences with it.

I have found that the metal needs to be real clean to get a good weld. I had people tell me all I needed was an O/A torch and some wire coat hangers. Wrong. The wire coat hangers of today are coated, and are not made of the best material. I found that the oxy and the acetylene work best for me if they are about the same pressure setting. It shouldn't take but a few seconds for the metal to begin to pool. If it does, it may be that your tip is too small for the metal you are trying to weld.

As I said I am no expert at this, but maybe you can try a larger tip, or change the mixture pressures.

Jim

[weldgault]

The mfg. of the equipment will have a chart for the thickness you are welding and the pressures your tip should take, or ask where you purchased them. John

[TexHand]

Make sure you're familiar with the 1/7 and 15psi rules - a KaBoom could ruin your day.

[metallurgy]

I have that little red chart, and I'm suposedly using the right sized tip. It's 5 psi on both oxy and acetylene.

If the tip is any bigger it would be possible to draw too much acetylene, for i have a rather small (75 cuft) tank.

I was looking to my technique being the problem, it seems like soneone would have had this problem before. Torch angle, maybe i'm working too close or far away, amount of filler, etc.

[Aerometalworker]

I have that little red chart, and I'm suposedly using the right sized tip. It's 5 psi on both oxy and acetylene.

If the tip is any bigger it would be possible to draw too much acetylene, for i have a rather small (75 cuft) tank.

I was looking to my technique being the problem, it seems like soneone would have had this problem before. Torch angle, maybe i'm working too close or far away, amount of filler, etc.

Unfortunately welding is not an A+B+C=WELD.
Here are the real basics that have been around for 100 years.

The Obvious-Use a neutral flame, err to the side of carburizing.
1-Use enough heat so that welding can start about 10 seconds into the heating.
2-If the tip sneezes, go up a tip size
3-If the tip pops a lot, and is clean, and has plenty of heating capability, go DOWN a tip size to increase the gas velocity at the tip and cool it.
4-Most welding of steel has the inner cone almost touching the work.
5-Use only enough gas pressure to support full heat of the chosen tip when both torch valves are wide open.
6-Torch angle depends on what your doing, 90 degrees is max heat, as you lay the torch over you impart less heat, this is how you can control weld width without pulling the torch away.
7-Buy an old welding book, the Linde book called "The OA Handbook" is excellent, I have found newer texts to not be nearly as good.

-Aaron

[Garfield]

I'm just a noob here and don't mean to step on toes but what shade of eye protection are you using?

If you have the shade 10 or so helmet from arc welding , it will be hard to see the puddle before it gets to big. Gas cutting and welding goggles are shade 6 I think.

Again this is just a stab in the dark, I haven't done much other than cutting with a torch, but thought it might help.

Good luck
Garfield

[Broccoli1]

amount of filler, etc.

You have to be able to work the puddle with out filler FIRST!!:)

[hankj]

Metallurgy,

For welding with O/A, clean steel is important. You can cut gnarly lookin' stuff all day, but a weld wants clean.

For that tip, I'd run 3 psi C²H² and 5 psi O². Adjust for a neutral flame.

The way to control puddle size is with heat! If the puddle starts to get too big, back off with the torch a bit. Like Ed said, start without filler, just fusing the metal. Burn through a few times and keep a close eye on what the puddle does just before the weld falls through. That instant is the ideal spot to move forward! Eventually, you'll be able to see a tiny hole just before burn through - that's when to move! It's called "keyholing", and is the best sign of a full penetration weld.

Gas welding is fun. It's slow enough that you can get it together with practice, it's very instructive, and it is a very good background to move into other processes from.

Keep it up - you'll love it.

Hank

[metallurgy]

Thanks for the help! I'm going to be out there tomorrow morning, and now it's set up I can weld all day.

I'll just type a little here:

First of all, some of the welds were on the bottom of an "L" shape joint, and I think i was actually laying a strong bead. It had that keyhole effect.

On the sides, I might bring the flame a little closer. That seems like it would be more concentrated, so i'll get a puddle faster. I think i have the right tip size, no popping, it works well now that i probably needed to move the torch a little more.

Also: Would it work to be practicing not on a joint, just running a puddle along steel? That would save me a lot of time, since i have to cut each piece and grind it smooth :o .

Background info: I'm not completely new at this, I took a class and learned stick (got good at 6010, and i want to get my o/a beads to look somewhat like that), mig, and o/a cutting. I o/a welded a few times, but not enough to get really good at it. I decided i really liked welding, so i saved up and bought the super range. I used it for about a month, and left it for a year, to come back to it now. When i first did it i wasn't caring at all how the welds looked, but i still have some pieces that looked all right. I want to be able to do that again...

thanks again, metallurgy