dry cut saw, brand opinion

[tigster]

i'm seriously thinking about purchasing a 14" dry cut saw. i found a good deal on a new porter cable saw, model 1410. does anyone own one, and would care to comment on it? thanks.

[yorkiepap]

Hey tigster,
I posted a lot of info. on the Porter Cable 1410 and the chopsaw stand I made for it on another forum and I highly recommend it. I have 2 at work that are over 12yrs old, and my home shop unit is over a year old and runs like a Swiss watch. They come with a superb tungsten tipped(C-7) blade and you can generally get 800-1200 cuts before sharpening is needed. That amount is, of course, resultant on the method you apply the cutting pressure. "Hog" cutting will dull or destroy a blade very quickly and the technique of pressure is the secret to blade life. Also, I use the Freud Diablo Steel Demon 14", 72T, C-7 grade blades exclusively, as they will outperform any other blade I have used. They can be purchased on E-Bay quite reasonably(100-$120 for 4) which is the price for 1 at Lowes/HD. Get the Porter Cable....you will not be disappointed or regret your purchase......Denny

[tigster]

yorkiepap, thanks for the reply. looks like i'll be getting it. just one question. excuse my ignorance, but what is "hog" cutting? thanks.

[tigster]

just purchased the porter cable, model 1410, 14" dry cut saw brand new for $299 + $27 shipping. if anyone is interested, here is the link to the saw:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Porter-Cable-1410-14-Multi-Cut-Chop-Dry-Saw-NEW_W0QQitemZ310007881774QQihZ021QQcategoryZ79706Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


regards...

[yorkiepap]

Hey tigster,
Glad to hear you got the P/C 1410.....you won't regret your purchase. The term "hog" cutting means someone who exerts excessive downward pressure in a hurry to cut thru very fast. They push the blade thru the metal instead of a gentle pressure to allow the teeth to do effective cutting. I've seen many a blade get ruined with as few as 3 cuts when "hog" cutting. Hope that clears it up a bit. When you start your cut, you will feel the teeth doing their job with the pressure you apply. BTW, keep in mind that any angle, square or rectangular tubing should be cut on the angle, not on the flats. You will have a much better blade life that way. Let us know how you like it when it arrives & you try it out....Denny

[salvageclaus]

I started a thread on dry cut saws a couple weeks ago and got a lot of good feedback

dry cut saw thread (http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=28027)

I put allot of thought into it and I went with a Makita
I was able to buy one from a local tool store (not a tool department of a store)
where they are a authorized Makita and Milwaukee repair facility also.

just my humble two cents, but you might want to read through that thread as well.

[SundownIII]

Tigster,

I also have the PC 1410 and am very happy with it. Very precise angle cuts which go from saw to welding table. With the old chop saw, cuts went from the saw, to the belt sander, to the welding table.

I also use the Freud blades. They can be had on the internet for in the $45 range plus shipping. I'm still watching for the deal that yorkiepap got. Shouldn't complain too much, since I got my saw for $205 plus shipping.

One thing you'll hear, is that there has been a problem leaking oil. Don't know how this got started. I've gone over my saw (and owner's manual drawings) and I don't think there's even an oil reservoir on the saw. Think what they're talking about, and mine did it, was when first used, you'll see a little oil on the table. Only thing I have been able to figure is that it's just excess oil/grease from manufacturing. It has never been a problem.

Think you'll really like the saw. Let us know your feeling once you get it.

[Steve W]

tigster, I bought one last April on Ebay. It's just like the one you bought. I love it. Hardly use my chop saw anymore. I would recommend one. What I like about it is the prefect square cuts and no burrs to grind off and hardly any sparks. And to me it seems quieter than my chop saw. My neighbor thinks so too.
Take care, Steve

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,
Here is a compact, yet fully functional stand I made for my Porter Cable Saw. Many of us suffer not having enough room to get additional equipment, or have a difficult time manuevering the equip. we have. I designed this to be quite compact, mobile, and have the ability to cut some long material. When not in use, as in Photo 1, this stand will fit nicely into a space 2' X 2 1/2'. I posted a full explanantion on the Welding Web Forum titled "Chop Saw Mobile Workstation", on 08/06/07 if you want the particulars. There are 9 photos, so please allow me to post both as only 5 pics per post are allowed. Hope this may give you some ideas for your saw.....Denny

[yorkiepap]

2nd Group:

[Willy Victor]

Nice work Denny I like the sliding stop for repetitive cuts.


Willy

[salvageclaus]

Hey guys,
Here is a compact, yet fully functional stand I made for my Porter Cable Saw. Many of us suffer not having enough room to get additional equipment, or have a difficult time manuevering the equip. we have. I designed this to be quite compact, mobile, and have the ability to cut some long material. When not in use, as in Photo 1, this stand will fit nicely into a space 2' X 2 1/2'. I posted a full explanantion on the Welding Web Forum titled "Chop Saw Mobile Workstation", on 08/06/07 if you want the particulars. There are 9 photos, so please allow me to post both as only 5 pics per post are allowed. Hope this may give you some ideas for your saw.....Denny

can someone PLEASE find this thread and post a link to it????

I have searched about 67 times looking for it and can not find it.

I really, really,really,really,really, want the plans to make one of these

[Mr Jimi]

can someone PLEASE find this thread and post a link to it????

I have searched about 67 times looking for it and can not find it.

I really, really,really,really,really, want the plans to make one of these

I found it just by following his directions and I don't think we can post links like that here or he would of. He gave you all the correct info to find it and it's a nice site
Thanks for the directions Yorkiepap
Jim
:)

[salvageclaus]

I found it just by following his directions and I don't think we can post links like that here or he would of. He gave you all the correct info to find it and it's a nice site
Thanks for the directions Yorkiepap
Jim
:)

then I guess It is just not mean to be.
when I type in the search field and put the exact words that his thread was titled, all I get in return is a link to that thread.
I have searched also for threads started by him, no results

:confused::confused::confused:

[yorkiepap]

Hey guys,
I wanted to add a few notes to help those considering a dry cut saw or an abrasive saw. Personally, I find the dry cut saw(steel blade w/tung.) to be most effective to cut most steel and configurations, also taking into consideration the physical size(dia.) of the steel to be cut. For those who are inexperienced, newbies getting started, or those who have never used a dry cut saw, there are physical factors for application that have to be understood.
To clear up blade diameter vs effective cutting:
1) The larger blade dia. will always cut more effectively because of the SFM(Surface Feet/Min) if both saws have identical rpm. RPM affects the SFM.
2) Blade manufacturers must take into consideration the forces applied with the rpm to produce a blade that is safe & will not fracture. I have seen the results of the use of an 1800 rpm dry cut steel blade used on a 3800 rpm abrasive saw....not pretty!!
3) Look into all the parameters of a saw you are considering and what applications and material you intend to use.

In addition, the tremendous use of the 4 1/2" grinder to cut with the use of an abrasive disc has shown the effectiveness of SFM with these tools. They generally are in the 10,000-15000rpm range....very high SFM and that is why they work so well.

To savageclaus: You'll have to go to the WW Forum, go to the "Projects" topic, and look at dates, probably about page 22 or 23, and the post title "Chop Saw Mobile Workstation" on 08/06/07. Then scroll the post & you will find all the info.. Hope that helps.

Lastly, is there a restriction here that disallows the posting of a thread from another forum? Just asking.......Denny

[salvageclaus]

oh and by the way:

links CAN be posted here

its the icon with the small earth with the link of chain

here is one for Yahoo (http://www.yahoo.com/)

[salvageclaus]

To savageclaus: You'll have to go to the WW Forum, go to the "Projects" topic, and look at dates, probably about page 22 or 23, and the post title "Chop Saw Mobile Workstation" on 08/06/07. Then scroll the post & you will find all the info.. Hope that helps.
Lastly, is there a restriction here that disallows the posting of a thread from another forum? Just asking.......Denny

what is the "WW" forum?

the only section that mentions projects is the "WELDING PROJECTS & CONVERSATIONS BY COMMUNITY" subsection but I don't see the "WW" or anything with those initials anywhere?

[salvageclaus]

here is a screen shot of my searches lest anyone think I'm a liar:D


http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/weldingforum.JPG

[yorkiepap]

Hey savageclaus,
Sorry for the confusion. Type in: www.weldingweb.com
Then go to the "Forum"
Scroll down to the "Welding Projects and Pictures"
Then look at the page numbers...get to page 22 or 23 & look for the post titled "Chop Saw Mobile Workstation" with "yorkiepap" as the poster.

I don't know how to link a post from another forum....want to enlighten me?

Hope this gets you there.....Denny

[salvageclaus]

well it SURE HELPS to be in the correct web site now doesn't it??????:D:D:D:D:D:D:D


here is a link from the other website to your project

yorkiepap's chopsaw table project (http://www.weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=12430&highlight=Chop+Mobile+Workstation)

[yorkiepap]

Hey savageclaus,

First: I want to thank you for posting the link as it will provide the dimensional configurations I used.

Second: If you have a Dry Cut Saw and want to cut accurate angles, I have another post that can help. For those who want to cut material at an angle, I have another post on the WW site that shows techniques I use and some fixtures I designed to help cut at odd angles. Since I don't know how to link this post, it can be found at the Welding Web Forum site, under "Machines, Tools & Cutting Methods", on Page 8, dated 07/15/07, and titled "Angle Cutting Techniques". Since you know how to link these, would you be so kind to post this one here too?

Thanks....Denny

[tigster]

the way to link a post from another forum, or other web page for that matter:

go to the post or web page. click on the URL in the address bar so that it is highlighted. press CTRL+c. go back to this forum and in a message, where you want the link to go, press CTRL+v. should work fine.

regards...

[yorkiepap]

Hey tigster,
Thanks bro'.....I never did this and wasn't sure. I didn't see any icon with the earth & chain anywhere....I'll try your technique.

Denny

[salvageclaus]

yorkiepap's thread on WW on Angle Cutting

click here (http://www.weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=12757)

[yorkiepap]

Hey salvageclaus,
Please forgive me for the misspelling of your forum name in the previous posts and THANK YOU!!! for adding the other link. I hope those who want to do some angle cutting find it helpful.....Denny

[salvageclaus]

don't worry bout that.
My friends called me "salvageclaus" when I started bringing home gifts from my dumpster diving runs.... kinda like a welfare-santa ...it works for me.:D

[tigster]

well, got my porter cable 1410 yesterday. this evening, i had a chance to get it out of the box, read all the instructions, make sure everything was good and tight, and try it! WOW!!! that's about all there is to say. i didn't know what to expect, first time i've ever used a dry cut saw. tried cutting some 1" schedule 40 black pipe. like a hot knife through butter. on my bandsaw, i don't really know how long it took, never timed it. i am guessing in the 2 to 4 minute range. pc 1410 = 10 seconds, maybe. about another 5 to 10 seconds for the blade to come to a stop after releasing the trigger. i only made about 6 cuts tonight, some 90, some 30 degrees. going to finish making my small portable welding table. probably weld it up tomorrow or sunday. i don't know how long the porter cable blade will last that came with the saw, we'll see. so far, so good. i also purchased a freud diablo blade as a replacement and received that today. i am set for a while. cuts come out nice and clean. i could actually touch the pieces that were just cut. the saw puts no heat to speak of into the metal. bottom line... i really like my new saw. thanks to all who posted helpful info on these saws.

regards...

[Brianstick]

I heard the same problem with the oil seal leaking. Hopefully they got that fixed. Other than that it sounds like a great tool.

[salvageclaus]

yorkiepap,

on the tubing under the mounting plate, did you use 1.5 inch and then build the roller assembly with the 1.25 inch?
I am working on my cloned model of your design and all I have left to do is build the roller assembly.

where did you get your roller at? I called an industrial supply house Friday and they would have to order one.

thanks

[yorkiepap]

Hey salvage,
Hope this will be clear for you. Yes, the bottom of the plate has 1.5" sq. tube welded so you can use the 1.25" to telescope. You have to have the locking bolts installed so you can snug the 1.25" tube up against the 1.5". The roller fab was just a quicky as trying to find an exact dimensional roller is a PIA. You have to have the saw sitting on the table top. Put a piece of either size in the saw vise so you have 24-36" extended to the left & tighten vise jaws. After securing your (2) 1.25" tubes in place on the under tubes, you can measure the distance to the bottom of the tube in the vise jaw. I simply used a piece of 1.5" round tubing, (2) 1.5" washers with a 1/2" hole welded to each end. That way all you have to do is use a piece of 1/2" rod as an axel. Place the tube w/axel against the bottom of the extended piece in the saw vise, and measure the distance from the C/L of the axel to the 1.25" slider tube. Then you will know the length to cut your roller uprights. The roller doesn't really get a lot of stress and the rollers are so easy to make if one goes bad. Mine is used every day and had several hundred feet of 2.5" sq. X 1/4" wall run over it and it has no wear at all so far. Quite rugged & simple. Hope this helps....just ask if you need to clear up anything else. I can take some really closeup photos if you need them......Denny

[salvageclaus]

Hey salvage,
Hope this will be clear for you. Yes, the bottom of the plate has 1.5" sq. tube welded so you can use the 1.25" to telescope. You have to have the locking bolts installed so you can snug the 1.25" tube up against the 1.5". The roller fab was just a quicky as trying to find an exact dimensional roller is a PIA. You have to have the saw sitting on the table top. Put a piece of either size in the saw vise so you have 24-36" extended to the left & tighten vise jaws. After securing your (2) 1.25" tubes in place on the under tubes, you can measure the distance to the bottom of the tube in the vise jaw. I simply used a piece of 1.5" round tubing, (2) 1.5" washers with a 1/2" hole welded to each end. That way all you have to do is use a piece of 1/2" rod as an axel. Place the tube w/axel against the bottom of the extended piece in the saw vise, and measure the distance from the C/L of the axel to the 1.25" slider tube. Then you will know the length to cut your roller uprights. The roller doesn't really get a lot of stress and the rollers are so easy to make if one goes bad. Mine is used every day and had several hundred feet of 2.5" sq. X 1/4" wall run over it and it has no wear at all so far. Quite rugged & simple. Hope this helps....just ask if you need to clear up anything else. I can take some really closeup photos if you need them......Denny
that's great I understand how to make a roller from my scrap pipe.
I'll get er' done now. thanks:D

[yorkiepap]

Hey salvage,
BTW......I am expecting to see some photos.....OK?????

Denny

[salvageclaus]

ok yorkie,

I used 2" for the bottom section and stacked it on the ends, I just like being different:D
I will pop in some plastic tubing caps as soon as I get by lowes and get some just to give it a finished look.

I had to stop before I got the section built for the roller because I didn't have any 1.25 inch tubing
All I will need to do is finish that and I will call it done.
I won't add on the extension cord outlet or the drop pan, while both are very nice ideas and handy, I just don't think I would use those features.
thanks again for posting your project, it inspired me to build this and otherwise I wouldn't have.:D


http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/chopsawstand3.JPG


http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/chopsawstand6.JPG
http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/chopsawstand7.JPG

[tigster]

nice job salvage. looks like i'll have to attempt this when i get some time. thanks for sharing yorkiepap and salvageclaus.

[yorkiepap]

Hey salvage,
Nice job on your stand. Please post the photos when you get it totally finished. The one thing with this design is that you can make any kind of modification you need for your application and still be compact & mobile. Hope the other guys who make one post their unit as well. I like to look at how others apply their needs into a tangible projects. Thanks bro'........Denny

[556man]

Nice work on that stand you made yorkiepap and salvageclause. I like it. I'm thinking of making one too.

556man

[salvageclaus]

Ok , I am finished!

Something happened last night before I went to bed that changed my thinking on how to finish the roller support.
I saw that HF had their roller stands on sale for $7.49 each!!
I went down there this morning and bought two.
One to harvest parts from and one to keep in tact for future use.

I then took the one I bought for parts and cut the bottom of the tubing off where the holes were drilled to attach the horizontal legs.
I took the main upright tube and welded it to the bottom center of my frame and made two small braces out of 1" tube and welded them in place.
Then I tacked on one 5/16 bolt to that tube and I tacked on one to the adjustable tube(this is the one that folds in and out if you left the HF roller stand intact)
I then cut a piece of 11 gauge flat bar and drilled a 5/16 hole in one end for the bolt on the upright tube to pass thru and then I notched slots about every 1.5 inches.
These slots and flat bar lock the pivoting tube into place after I find the desired angle.

Now I installed the roller and inner sleeve tube into the pivot tube which came with a locking knob you turn to tighten.

Now I have several adjustments for height and angle which lets the roller be close or further away from the saw. It doesn't let the roller set out as far as yorkiepaps design, but for the weight and length of material I work with, it suits me. And when I'm done it drops down and folds up neatly as part of the stand.

I hope you guys like it 1/2 as much as I do.

http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/rollerstand1.JPG
http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/rollerstand2.JPG
http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/rollerstand3.JPG
http://pages.suddenlink.net/4starproducts/rollerstand4.JPG

[yorkiepap]

Hey salvage,
Absolutely superb setup.....GOOD JOB!!! I like to see those who use the grey matter to come up with some unique application like yours. And the rewards are the fact you have an extremely cost-effective(cheap) solution that meets your needs quite nicely. Looking forward to others who may engage some ingenuity to fabricate their own ideas.

I'm in the midst of a new project I think will be a fun project for those, like myself, who are always trying to conserve space, yet have the equipment to do those "****, I wish I had a.......". I'll post the entire layout when it's done.

Denny

[salvageclaus]

Hey salvage,
Absolutely superb setup.....GOOD JOB!!! I like to see those who use the grey matter to come up with some unique application like yours. And the rewards are the fact you have an extremely cost-effective(cheap) solution that meets your needs quite nicely. Looking forward to others who may engage some ingenuity to fabricate their own ideas.

I'm in the midst of a new project I think will be a fun project for those, like myself, who are always trying to conserve space, yet have the equipment to do those "****, I wish I had a.......". I'll post the entire layout when it's done.

Denny

thanks yorkie!
you know what they say, every now and then even a blind hog will find an acorn:)

[AnotherDano]

I've got a couple of those roller stands that are never where I need them, when I need them.

Great idea!!

We need a Hall of Fame for ideas like this.

[Cleaver]

Hi,

I am just going to bring this thread up again.

I am looking into buying a dry cut saw as my bandsaw was not cutting straight (china brand), and so thats why I want to invest into something that cuts straight and nice.

I currently have a dewalt chop saw (Abrasive), and I have been reading into the dry/cold cut saws. I havent actually seen a comparison of a chop saw and a dry/cold saw cuts. I have only heard that its a BIG difference.

I have been reading and saw that people like the Porter Cable 1410. But I checked on ebay and there was none at the moment. I did see the Milwaukee 6190, for around $400USD.

I am comparing the Porter Cable and the Milwaukee and I dont know which one to get?! I noticed that the RPM speed is PC=1300rpm 15amps, and the Milwuakee is=1500rpm 15amps. Does that make a difference?

Thank you in advance for any advice..

Regards,
Cleaver

[yorkiepap]

Hey Cleaver,
You will find that the blades made for the dry cut saws are rated for use up to 1800 rpm. It will not make any difference if one saw is a bit less in rpm rating than another as long as it remains under 1800. The blade that came with the P-C is an 80T, C7 grade tungsten tooth, and has superb cutting life. My main blade for my saws home & at work are the 14", 72T, C7 Freud Diablo Metal Demon blades. They are the best blades you can get IMO. I know there are several others here and on other forums who use them also & like them. Keep in mind that you want to get a metal blade that has, preferably, C7 tungsten teeth. You can go to a minimum of C5, but your lifespan will be a bit less. My 10" aluminum blades are C6 Freud non-ferrous blades and they have yet to be sharpened. Stay away from the Bullitt blades(14")....garbage

I am kinda disappointed that Porter-Cable decided to discontinue the 1410. Don't understand because it is priced comparable to all the others on the market, although it had been discounted really affordable on E-bay and I recommended it to a couple of the guys on several forums who got one while they were still under $250. I have never used a Milwaukee chop or dry cut saw, so I cannot comment on them. I will say that the really old Milwaukee 7 1/2" power saw my pap owns has been in use since the '50's and still runs like new. I do have (2) of the Milwaukee 1/2" Magnum Holeshooter drills, one in the shop, the other in the mobile unit, and they are absolutely the best hand drill I have ever owned. All of mine & pap's Milwaukee tools were made in Appleton, WI and I believe that they now do have some of their tools made overseas. Don't know about the ratings on those. I would surmise that the Milwaukee company would maintain the quality & ruggedness since their reputation has always been first class tools. Anyway, hope that helps you with your considerations of choice.

Denny

[Cleaver]

Hi Denny,

Thank you very much for your reply and feedback on these machine.

I will most likely invest into one of them as I need to cut pipes sometimes for exhaust and etc but I want something that will cut nicely because using a hacksaw is very tiring! hahaha.

I am only a hobbiest but I also want something good.

Oh, is this the blade that you are referring to?
http://www.cripedistributing.com/freud-diablo-steel-demon-ferrous-metal-blade-p-1467.html

Also, with that blade, can it cut almost any types of metal like T304 stainless or T316? Aluminum? and etc? And also with different types of thickness? I will mostly use it for automotive work so cutting tubing/piping/etc.

Thanks again, and ill have to start saving up!!!

Regards,
Cleaver

[yorkiepap]

Hey Cleaver,
To be honest, I have never cut any SS tubing on my saw. Most of the SS I use is up to 1"dia. & I use a 4 1/2"(.045) Sait cutoff wheel. I know SS will really play he!! with most dry cut blades. The only fellow I know who does a lot of SS exhaust tubing uses an abrasive saw with a diamond blade & coolant. He really cuts a lot of SS and said the expense of his setup was quite worthwhile. Also, it was mentioned on one of the forums that rebar will shorten a blade life considerably. Again, I use a cutoff disc for that material. I use my Diablo blades strictly on reg. steel & alum & have cut 2" sq. solid steel with it & no problems. The other really important method I do is to spray WD-40 on the blade when cutting alum. and it keeps the teeth completely clean without the alum. sticking to it. I finally had to sharpen the orig. P-C blade that came with the saw, but I have used it over a year and it has probably over 1600 cuts on it. Lifespan will be determined by the cutting pressure you use...slow, even, steady pressure will give you the cleanest cuts & longest lifespan. Anyway, just a few more helpful hints & suggestions to get you to formulate your best solutions for your needs.

Denny

[Cleaver]

Kool..Good to know this!

I also noticed that on the site with the blade (Freud Diablo Metal Demon blades), it does not specify if it can cut SS,only said "mild steel only" Hmmm...

Reason I ask about SS tubing is that one of my friends who owns a shop cuts alot of T304 stainless steel tubing on exhaust of cars and turbo charging. He just uses a Rigid chop saw that cuts well but leaves alot of burrs that he spends extra time on grinding it and clean it up making sure its a good cut.

Now, if he had a dry cut saw (like the Milwaukee), he can save time which mean better service :)

I wonder if anyone could chime in with regards to cutting SS tubing?!?!

hehehe...

[yorkiepap]

Hey Cleaver,
I forgot to mention that Cripesdistributing is who I get my blades from. I bought with bids, (2) groups of 4 blade auctions. I got them for $145 incl. s/h which is a good buy. My boss at work was paying our supplier $110 ea. for Dewalt blades till I told him I could get a better blade for less than half. Our supplier never heard of Freud blades.

I have attached a photo of a blade grind I have the fellow who sharpens our company blades do for me. He has the setup to do this and since I do all the alum. for our company at my home shop, the company pays for the grind. This may be a way for you to get better results cutting SS with the Diablo blades. You would have to locate someone in your area who sharpens blades & has the setup to do this grind. It is simply a 45deg angle grind on each side of the tungsten tooth. I have (2) of my alum. blades ground like this for my alum. bending since I don't have a brake. Really does a nice job.

Just some more "food for thought"....... Denny

[Cleaver]

Hi Denny,

I just wanted to say thank you for helping me out and answering my questions. I really appreciate it very much.

With regards to the blades, I thought at first that they were already in an angle. I guess they are flat to begin with and with the 45 degree, you made the blades look like ^ instead of - ?

Hmm...I wouldnt even know where to begin to find those. Maybe you can help me out by getting it done through you, and you ship me the blades already grinded down? hehe, basically I buy the blades off you already grinded down? Just a thought...

regards,
cleaver

[yorkiepap]

Hey Cleaver,
There are no manufacturers who make that blade tooth configuration. If you want to try one, let me know. Like I said, SS is a bugger, but this tooth grind may be effective. I would suggest to try one & see if it will do as you expect. If you are interested, let me know & I'll give you a rough quote to have one done & shipping to you...... Denny

[Roger]

I read about a month ago that porter cable was bought by B&D which also owns Dewalt.

[yorkiepap]

Hey Roger,
If that is so, I would really like them to continue producing the 1410 saw as my younger brother wants one. I started teaching him welding & metal fab a couple months ago & got him setup a little at a time as his finances allowed. He's been saving for a new saw like mine when he started learning on my saw. Hope they re-introduce it.... even if it has a B-D name on it. Thanks for the info..

Denny

[Cleaver]

Hey Cleaver,
There are no manufacturers who make that blade tooth configuration. If you want to try one, let me know. Like I said, SS is a bugger, but this tooth grind may be effective. I would suggest to try one & see if it will do as you expect. If you are interested, let me know & I'll give you a rough quote to have one done & shipping to you...... Denny

Kool!!

Thanks Denny, maybe once I get my dry cut saw, I will take you on that offer :)

Just a thought, are you willing to try out cutting SS? hehehe..and see what your feedback on that is? But thats only if your willing to do it, cuz I dont want to trouble your business and etc.

[unit5alive]

I just ordered a reconditioned 1410, and the tool dealer told me that since they were bought out they are slowly pushing the porter cable brand towards the woodworking end of the business , I guess time will tell , Craig.:)