MM 210-volt settings

[Ray C.]

Being a tapped machine, I would like to know how many volts are at each setting. Would there be a reference for this? Thanks for any help.

[Rocky D]

Divide the max out put by the number of taps...210 ÷ 7 = 30
Since your machine's low amp is 30..start from 30... so
tap 1 = 30-60
tap 2 = 60-90
tap 3 = 90-120
and so on. Simple. :)

[Broccoli1]

Amps change- Volts stay relatively the same:)

[Zrexxer]

See page 10 of your owner's manual for the volt-amp curves. That will tell approximately what the voltage ranges are for each tap.

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1325r_mil.pdf

[Dan]

The useable output range is going to vary some depending on input voltage. For example, a 240 V input is going to produce a slightly higher output range then a 230V input. A ball park figure of the useable voltage range for each tap is something like this:

Tap#1: upper 15's - lower 16's
Tap#2: Mid 16's -lower 17's
Tap#3: Upper 17's - lower 18's
Tap#4: Upper 18's - mid 19's
Tap#5: Upper 20's - lower 21's
Tap#6: 22 -24
Tap#7: 24 -25

[Broccoli1]

So voltage changes within the tap range:)


Dan, Rocky, Z-

So when does this info come in handy with the MM210 since the machine does not display the info?

[Rocky D]

It don't to me...I know what my weld should look and feel like, so I just click it up till I think it's right...:rolleyes:

[Dan]

So voltage changes within the tap range:)


Dan, Rocky, Z-

So when does this info come in handy with the MM210 since the machine does not display the info?

Yeah Ed,

As you increase the wire speed (amperage) the voltage level that a tap outputs reduces. Or, if you want to state it the opposite way, as you reduce the wire speed (amperage) the voltage level that a tap outputs increases.

BTW, your 135 functions the same way too. Meaning, the voltage value that a dial setting produces will vary up or down some with changes made to the wire speed dial.

Now a unit like the MM 251, that I use own, functions differently. Set the volt to 17 and that's pretty much were it stays, even if you make adjustments to the wirespeed.

For home use there really isn't a need to know the output range of a voltage tap. In the past, I basically wasted the time finding out just to get a feel for the machine.

[dda52]

It isn't a bad thing to know, IMO....but with a tapped machine, it doesn't really help either. If I set mine for the thickness on the door chart and add a setting, I am usually just where I like to be.:D

[Ray C.]

I really like the performance of my MM210, but thinking of letting it go if I can find a leftover MM251. Would like the bigger spool gun, but would it run .030 wire as well as my 210 and perform as well on the lower end? Dan has had both machines but sold the 251. Just wondering why.

[Dan]

I really like the performance of my MM210, but thinking of letting it go if I can find a leftover MM251. Would like the bigger spool gun, but would it run .030 wire as well as my 210 and perform as well on the lower end? Dan has had both machines but sold the 251. Just wondering why.

The short arc characteristics of the 251/252 aren't even close to similar to the MM 210. The 251 produces a very soft arc with a very wet puddle. Between the two, the 210 is most definitely the easier of the two to dial the arc in on. Of course the major reason for this, is the fact that the 210 is a tapped voltage selection unit. Performance wise with an .023 - .035 solid wire the the 251 is a very good unit.

My main reason for getting rid of the 251 is due to the fact that I own several wire units, and with the arc characteritsics and weld puddle wet out of the 251 being extremely different then the rest, made going from like the 210 to the 251 a little annoying. I suspect, if the 251 would have been the only unit I owned, I'd still possibly own it. I definitely like the ESAB Migmaster 250 that I replaced it with though, due to it having much closer arc characteristic and weld puddle wet out in comparison to my other units.

One thing that annoyed me about the 251, was how touchy the voltage dial was. Getting the dial set to an exact voltage required a light tapping of the dial at times with just one finger. My understanding is Miller has fixed this issue with the new clicker style dial that they went to on the 252.


I'd go with a 252 over a 251, the pre/post flow timers on the 252 are going to make it a better aluminum unit.

[Ray C.]

The more I think about it-I think I would be nuts to sell my MM210. It's just too nice of a machine to sell.

[Dan]

For a hobbyist type environment if my most common usage of a wire unit was on thin ga sheet - 1/4" steel, with and .023 or .030 solid wire and C-25, as good as a MM 210 is for this application, I'd have a difficult time justifying getting rid of it. Having ran a MM 210 for quite a few years and having owned a MM 251 for over a year, the first thing I'd miss about the 210 , would be the ease of operation factor. Along with the arc characteristics and weld puddle wetout, the short time frame that is required to dial the 210 in for an application is one characteristic of the unit that makes it very appealing to me. This also one of the reasons why I favor my HH 187 over my PM 180C. When I am actually working on as project, I hate having to play around with the unit a lot to get it dialed in for different joint designs, and material thicknesses, that I may encounter on a project. Between the 210 and 251, I'd always have the 210 dialed in quicker.


I will mention though, if you are running the .045 gas shielded fluxcore on the 210, that you discussed running on it, stepping up to a 250+ amp unit for its higher out put and duty cycle , does make good sense.

[Ray C.]

I will mention though, if you are running the .045 gas shielded fluxcore on the 210, that you discussed running on it, stepping up to a 250+ amp unit for its higher out put and duty cycle , does make good sense.[/QUOTE]

No problem there. I use my XMT304 with a 22a feeder and a c-4015 Roughneck gun. A perfect set up for .045 dual shield.