Need part number: Sears Colormatic AC Stick Welder

[chickenfriend]

Hello,

I need the part number for the plastic/bakelite block that screws on the backside of the front panel and insulates the lead plug from the welder housing. This is a two-piece, two-holed rectangular plastic/resin block.

The two pieces appear to be identical, and sandwich the brass L contact from the transformer.

It broke into pieces from old age. It is red.

The Sears part site has a digitized diagram of the welder, 113.20242, but it is nearly all illegible. The description list is not detailed enough for me to identify the part, either.

Someone who has one of these old units could help me by looking in their owner's manual and giving me the name or number of the part, or even better, scanning up the parts pic in the manual.

The welder looks like this, and you will notice the two-holed socket, "A" and "B", on the upper left side of the panel.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a220/chickenfriend/SearscolormaticACwelder.jpg

I was told the welder was made by Emerson, but I can't come up with anything with a Search that helps.

Update: I think these pieces might be

BLOCK 5, CONTACT, MTG 61115 8


BLOCK 6, CONTACT, MTG 61117 10

because they both turn into the same part number on the sears order form page. Also, I am thinking that MTG might stand for "mounting", which would make sense. They show as 9.99 each so I would need two, plus 10$ for the shipping.

However, it might be better at this point just to rig up some standard twist connectors. I could have two short lengths of cable, attached to the respective ribbons off the transformer, coming outside the welder with two female Lenco style connectors, maybe one black and one red, and a male connector on the welding electode lead. Looks like I could do this for about 15-20$.

I'd probably have to put the cables through a squeeze type grommet on the panel so the cable won't move the ribbons inside around which could cause them to short together or to the case.

I assume the dual ribbon off the transformer is for the higher amperage output (the other ribbon is single). I might be able to curve the ribbon and slip it directly into the cable connector, around the cable.

Thoughts?

[Sberry]

Yes, something like that could be repaired in a variety of ways.

[ventureline]

Almost better off to mount in a couple of Miller standrd output studs, like the ones out of an SRH 333. Probably last a life time after that.

[bullett29]

Iam new to this group and love to weld, and i have a question.. what is the ideal amprge to run a 7018 6010 stick? and should i run it the same when goin uphill or over head? :confused:

[Sberry]

The settings on many machines differ, about 90A on the 6010 and in the 115 range for the 7018. I might tune it a little bit depending on a couple factors, thickness, fit up, maybe position but it would usually be minor, 5A, 10 under difficult circumstances, most of the time I dont bother. If I was doing one type of weld I would be more fussy but in general work one could spend time fooling with the dial. I had a machine a while ago, I walked back about twice to get it dialed in but didnt touch it for the rest of the day, still on the same setting.

[Aeroweld]

Iam new to this group and love to weld, and i have a question.. what is the ideal amprge to run a 7018 6010 stick? and should i run it the same when goin uphill or over head? :confused:


Your rod diameter is going to determine your amperage more so than your position. I run 6010 1/8" dia and 7018 3/32 right around 90 amps. If the 7018 was 1/8" dia I'd go up around the 115 range as Sberry suggested.

[Sberry]

I am not very well practiced, need a cheater and should clean a filthy hood, probably used the same curent, right around 90A for 1/8 6011 and 3/32 7018. Both overheads.

[Walt McBride]

Chickenfriend sent you a PM.
Walt

[chickenfriend]

Almost better off to mount in a couple of Miller standrd output studs, like the ones out of an SRH 333. Probably last a life time after that.


I thought about that, too, but need to look into their availability and price.

[ventureline]

What your after is a couple of the red Miller output studs pt#039047 They list out at $13.15 US from Miller so your LWS should be reasonably close to that amount.

Now another thing you could do is simply run your cables directly to the output windings that went to your other blown output studs, bolt them in and tape them up so they don't hit anything.

[soldermonkey]

I have one of the manuals.

The part I think you are after is listed as

BLOCK 5, CONTACT, MTG Part# 61115 Key # 8
BLOCK 6, CONTACT, MTG Part# 61117 Key # 10

I can scan the parts numbers and the diagram if you wish.
I will need an email address.

dave

[chickenfriend]

Thanks for the help and offers to scan the manuals.:)

I don't need anything else for this welder, however, since I was able to fix it for about 3$.

I cut the side panels out of one of those stiff blue plastic electrical junction boxes at Lowes, trimmed them with a dremel tool, and drilled them out for the terminal plugs. Then I sandwitched the two terminal sockets between two pieces and fastened to the front panel with a couple of screws and a small bolt. The only thing you have to be careful about is placing the screws so that they do not touch the teminal sockets.

The welder works and sounds like a bumblebee on steriods, which I guess is why they call them "buzz boxes".