Short O/A Hoses

[Zondfive]

What do I need to know and do to shorten a piece of double O/A hose. The seller provided barbed fittings and the nuts but there are no clamps or farrells. Are clamps required? If so what kind. I want to use this with a Gas Saver and I would rather not have a big pile of hose at my feet.

The barbs are about two inches long.

Thanks.

Z

[weldgault]

Either one are OK. They keep the pressure from blowing the nipple and nut out off the hose. John

[Sparkeee24]

Howdy Howdy!

Yes, you nead ferrules or clamps. This stuff is not something to mess with. At your local welding shop, ferrules should be very affordable and easy to come bye. Their are several qualities of crimp tools. The cheepest I've seen, is a block with two holes drilled through it, then the block is cut into two pieces, and welded to a spring steel C shaped 1/8" thick wire. You lay the hose, with the ferrule in one of the two half holes, then strike a hammer blow on the top block, squishing the ferrule on. Then you rotate 90 deg, so it's even on all sides. The tool should be less then 20$ for this type. then they're are ratchet hand operated types....and so on.

Good luck! Brian Lee Sparkeee29

P.S. don't forget, the nuts are different threads, get the right on on the right hose before you crimp ;)

[Rocky D]

Do NOT do this yourself...when they leak, bad things happen...very bad things! This is not a garden hose we're talking about! :eek:

Have a professional outfit make you new hoses....there are lots of them around that will even come to your house!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/RockyD/Welding%20Tricks/What%20not%20to%20do/effect.jpg

[Zrexxer]

If you're going to do this only once in forever, yeah, get it done. But the means to do it properly is available and not that expensive. A hose repair kit like this includes the fittings with barbs, the ferrules, and a specially modified vice-grip crimper that puts the ferrules on so well you couldn't tell its not factory. It's the exact same type of thing the manufacturer does, just in a portable version.

We cut a hose with a careless drop from a cut in the field one time, having this kit saved our bacon. We'd have had to pack our trash and didi back to town otherwise.

The one pictured below is available for about $42, I recommend it highly:
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=25028&stc=1&d=1197736524

[TozziWelding]

I have one of theese handy dandy kits in my truck. Works like a charm, and extra parts are readily avaleable.
http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/RK26.html

[J Hall]

I have to go with Rocky on this. Get some hoses made or shorten the ones you have. But have your LWS do the job.

[Sparkeee24]

Howdy Howdy!

It's my opinion that it is more likely for a hose to leak at the threaded joint if care is not taken in re-connecting. Every oxy acetylene system should be checked for leaks before use anyway. I always turn off all the valves at the torch handle, and pressurize the lines, then turn the valves off at the tanks, and wait about 5 minutes while cleaning tips, and getting everything ready. Then I see if the pressure has dropped at all. This always neads to be done anyway.

It's just as easy for a mouse to chew the hose between uses, and someone not to notice. I've also seen LWS put hoses together, and the counter guys often know less about how things work then the customers. I have seen alof of horribly crappy hoses come from the LWS that were put together there.

Good luck! Brian Lee Sparkeee29

[Mr Meck]

One time deal? You can have your LWS fix you up. Or you can get the kit and repair you own into the future. Any route you take though, do the leak test before use. This is the most important first step of all for any hose repair or modification. :D

[Zondfive]

Quite surprised at the responses. I have installed hydraulic hose components for aircraft landing gear and never had an issue. Believe me I will most certainly take this stuff in to have it done. Now, here is why I asked in the first place.
The parts came with the new hose and gas saver. Second when I asked at my LWS I got the deer in the headlights look coupled with the searching for cover look. Not reassuring. They only had ready made hose.
If I have to use my alternate LWS it is a real haul to get there - no matter!
I am really thankful for his site and the candid replies. I got the tips installed and it was a screaming hassle. I used silicone grease and a long slender punch to guide the barbs. I have not tried to fire it up _ REALLY no pun intended, wanted to see what I encountered here. Glad I waited. Couple calls Monday and if need be a long ride and even a new hose is far better that a call to 911! Thanks again.

Z

[Roger]

Silicone grease is a problem because not approved for use with O2. Could cause fire. Another problem is too slippery and hard to remove could cause hose retention problem. I would use diluted approved detergent that resembles dish washing detergent only if needed. I've done this and didn't need lubricant for O/A torch hoses.


Here is how I would do this.
Install swivel nut onto hose barb and install that assembly onto coupling tightening until swivel nut's hex flats align with coupling's.
Hold assembly with hose barb up in vice with smooth metal jaws.
Install ferrules onto hose. (hose clamps)
Push hose down onto hose barb. If everything is sized right shouldn't need lubricant.
swage ferrules onto hose.

Advantage of swaged ferrules clamping hose onto hose barb is when properly sized they are goof proof. Can't under or over tighten.

[Rocky D]

My hose guys used spit to put the hose on. :eek:

[Zondfive]

Who would have thought!

Actually the product I used was DC-4 used in Aircraft hydraulics. Used on nitrile "O" rings.

The approach is really great. I surmise I will be in for th long ride tomorrow - provided the snow lets me.

Again, many thanks for all th input.

Z

[Willy Victor]

Do NOT do this yourself...when they leak, bad things happen...very bad things! This is not a garden hose we're talking about! :eek:

Have a professional outfit make you new hoses....there are lots of them around that will even come to your house!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/RockyD/Welding%20Tricks/What%20not%20to%20do/effect.jpg

Rocky is that the definition of burning rubber?:confused:


Willy

[Some Creep]

Who would have thought!

Actually the product I used was DC-4 used in Aircraft hydraulics. Used on nitrile "O" rings.

The approach is really great. I surmise I will be in for th long ride tomorrow - provided the snow lets me.

Again, many thanks for all th input.

Z

I've done many hydraulic hoses myself. What gets through in hydraulics doesn't necessarily work in gas hose assembly. ('specially with 'boom' gas :D)

[Sberry]

I have a couple double ended barbs I carry on the truck and hose clamps for emergencies and also have a repair kit. They should not leak is right but some simple sense is all it takes and it doesnt sound like the poster is a beginner. The number one leak problem is old hose, they leak at the barbs even with factory ferrules. We are on the down side of the regulator, if this is a brazing assembly they are low pressure, cutting oxygen is relatively low pressure, even air pressures dont blow the fittings off unless the hoses are old and the clamps are missing, some dont even use clamps. Its not right but millions of them are in use everyday, torch, air , other fluids and gasses with a simple hose clamp.
I think TSC sells 5 ft whip assemblys of 3/16. I also spit on them.

[Roger]

Spit on mask before dive.
Spit check for leaks.
Spit lube hose barbs.

Don't use for attitude check.

[Zondfive]

Took all the parts to the LWS this morning. Counter guy - pretty sharp fellow, observed I had been sent the wrong sized barbs for the hose and no ferrules.
I left the hoses for assembly. They did not have the ferrules in stock. I asked also and he uses soap for assembly. Had forgotten about that.

The fittings installed were not done really well with a good bit of the barb protruding from the hose, more than is desirable let us say. Counter guy said he would fix it. Looks like it will be a doughnuts morning Wednesday.

I plan to ask the sell about this too. No doughnuts for them!

Z

[Rocky D]

Spit on mask before dive.
Spit check for leaks.
Spit lube hose barbs.

Don't use for attitude check.

words to live by...:D

[Roger]

If all hose barbs are well covered it is ok. I remember leaving up to 1/8 inch gap between hose and swivel net. If you were doing this yourself when you swage ferrules hose is squeezed closer to swivel nut.

Long time ago I was making up lots of shallow water diving umbilicals for Jack Browne mask (made by Deco). Air was supplied through 7/16 inch O2 hose and at the time we used long hose barbs 2X longer than standard and Band-it Jr preformed hose clamps.

http://www.mar-vel.com/pdffiles/P019_032-138_139_MASK%20COMMERCIAL.pdf

[Zondfive]

It is just amazing how complicated something like this can become.
can't tell you how much all this information has helped.
In the process i came across QUICK DISCONNECTS for O2 and acetylene - any body used those? worth the $$. I have to do a setup ever time I change processes so for me it might be a good thing. They seem pricey.

Z

[Broccoli1]

I know DDa2, as well as a few others, use them-

May want to start a thread with that title to get more hits.:)

[Aeroweld]

It is just amazing how complicated something like this can become.
can't tell you how much all this information has helped.
In the process i came across QUICK DISCONNECTS for O2 and acetylene - any body used those? worth the $$. I have to do a setup ever time I change processes so for me it might be a good thing. They seem pricey.

Z

I use Quick Disconnects on my torch set-ups. Don't know how I lived without them. Not positive, but I think mine are Western brand, They are the brass ones, not the stainless ones. I've had mine for about 14 years and I don't baby them and they have given good service life. I know some of the guys on the Board have had problems with the brass style and prefer the stainless style instead.
If you get a set I would recommend putting a 12-18" "whip' on the torches and then hook up the QD's. IMO putting on a short whip helps balance the torch and doesn't put as much strain on the QD's.