View Full Version : Slag Problems w/ Hobart 180
10-30-2007, 11:54 PM
Been a long time since Ive posted here. I rearly use my Hobart 180, since most of my work is TIG welded stuff. Right now Im putting a roll cage in a VW Bug, and Im using my MIG to weld the 1/8" plates to the stock floor pan. Its pretty thin, so I cant really run a bead but need to just use multiple tack welds, trying not to let it cool to much in between.
Anyways, my problem is with how dirty the welds look. I never used to have this problem with my little Lincoln MIG, it always layed nice clean tack welds. After Im done, it seems it is all covered in a light brown colored powder, and lots of little slag bits all around.
Any ideas? I tried turning my gas flow up a bit, but didnt help much. Settings are as follows:
.035 Solid Wire
75/25 Mix set at 30 CFM
Any and all help is appreciated! Thanks in advance! Maybe I just need to spray the material with anti-spatter, or dip the gun in the gel stuff? Ive just never had to do it before.
10-31-2007, 01:38 AM
I run my gas 15 to 20, to high gas flow will cause turbulence and suck in air, and the brown dust is most likely from the base metal. I never use the gel, but on stainless where I don't want spatter, I use anti-spatter spray.
11-01-2007, 12:46 AM
Cool, Thanks Rocky! Never thought of "too much" gas...good point though. It is 40 year old floor pans, and the 1/8" plates are cold rolled, but laser cut. Didnt prep them any...ground the old floor pans down to bare metal. I dont know...just doesnt seem to make clean tacks like my old Lincoln 135 did.
The weld itself doesnt even sound clean. My lincoln was just a "buzz" when you tacked, and I could see clearly. This machine seems to not have such a consistent sound and seems to be really difficult to see...like it throws more sparks or something. I know its probably easy to assume Im doing something different, but I really dont think I am.
Kyle, why are you running an .035 solid wire for 1/8" to sheet? .030 or maybe even .023 would be a better choice. For the material thickness your welding I'd assume you using either voltage tap #1 or #2. Either case, in my experience with an .023 or .030 wire and 75/25, when dial in properly these two taps produce a very consistent smooth arc. These are the two taps on the HH 180 that perform real well. If your running tap #1 the output maybe a little on the low side to run an .035 wire properly, don't know though, since I never tried an .035 wire on this tap.
What brand of wire are you running?
11-01-2007, 11:29 AM
Just as an experiment get some clean metal and run some tacks on it to find out if it is the machine or the metal. I agree with Dan .035 wire is a little heavy for what you are doing.
11-01-2007, 04:01 PM
1/8" for a floor pan seems a little too heavy to me, but in any event, I'd lower the gas flow to 15-20psi and try .023" solid wire instead of the .030" your're using now. You are using a "name brand" wire, right? Not some HF crapola wire.:eek:
Good clean & shiny bare metal and you should be good to go.
11-03-2007, 08:20 PM
Sorry guys, it is .030" wire. My fault. I was using the #3 voltage tap...focusing the heat on the 1/8" plate. Ill have to try some different metal and maybe the #2 voltage tap. Thanks again guys!
Oh, by the way, the floor pan isnt 1/8"...the plates I am welding the floorpans are 1/8"...floor pan is...THIN! haha.
Kyle, tap #3 on the HH 180 with an .030 wire is going to way to hot for 1/8" to thin sheet. The output on tap #3 is better suited for 3/16" or non-critical 1/4".
11-04-2007, 05:36 PM
Cool, thanks Dan. This is really the first project Ive used it on, and wanted to make sure the penetration was there, instead of being too cold and have to grind it all out. Ran a couple beads today on #2 tap, and it welded beautifully! :)
Dan, totally off topic, but can I still find your old plans to the sheetmetal bender you made? I have the flatbar bender, based off your plans, but thought you did a sheetmetal bender as well.
I may just buy one for $600 or so, but worried Ill buy a POS and regret it! HAHA. Im trying to think how I can make the same design as most of the nice ones, with the fingers coming to a sharp point, and coming down on an angle to hold the sheetmetal. How would you make the mechanism with a handle and all to keep it locked down??? Any ideas anyone???
11-05-2007, 01:02 AM
... Dan, totally off topic, but can I still find your old plans to the sheetmetal bender you made? ... Kyle
I re-did Dan's brake on AutoCad, if anyone's interested. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v252/RockyD/Dans%20Brake/