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carcentric
05-15-2006, 12:57 PM
Is there such a thing as a 30 amp 120 volt GFCI outlet?

I bought a 25' 10/2 extension cord from a RV accessories place so I can use my HAF 250A somewhere besides right next to the subpanel - where I've fed a new 30 amp 120 volt circuit, (using a 20 amp GFCI outlet temporarily).

The RV extension cord's male end has a "dryer" type plug - two big blades at about 60 degree angles from the ground lug - and the outlet I'm looking for would need to fit that plug. (The female end of the cord has a plug-in adapter from the "dryer" type to a conventional parallel-blades plug such as the HAF 250A has . . . . If the words aren't clear, I can post a photo later.)

So far I've only found the correct shaped outlets in non-GFCI configuration. And NO, I'm not gonna buy a 30 amp GFCI circuit breaker - I'm already well over a hundred bucks into getting this `&*^%$#~ Hobart to work again!

Sberry
05-15-2006, 02:56 PM
Since this is a dedicated outlet to a dedicated grounded tool forget the gfci, you dont need it. You could have skipped the special recepts but it wont hurt anything and since you have special recepts common tools cannot be plugged into it you are good to go without gfci.

hankj
05-15-2006, 03:50 PM
Doc,

Why did you run a 30A circuit for it? It only needs 20A. GFCI's don't come larger than 20A. I think the plug on your RV cord is probably a 10-30. If the ground spade is "L" shaped, it is.

The plug on the AF250A sounds like a 5-15P (115V, 15A). If it were a 5-20P, one of the flat blades would be rotated 90 to the other. You could just as well have bought yourself a 12-3 extension cord, installed a 5-20R, and run #12's!:p

But, overkill is OK, too!

Anyway, like Cary said, GFCI is not really warranted for the application. If you really want it, though, you'll have to pony up for a GFCI breaker!:(

Hank

TOMWELDS
05-15-2006, 04:01 PM
They make 2 pole GFI's, but i bet it's around $150. +......

Sberry
05-15-2006, 04:29 PM
Hank, the main reason for the 30 with the H250A is its has its own on board air comp and is a small unit so its always tapped out. This wouldnt be the first one that had tripping problems. If it was mine it would be on a 30 and no gfci.

carcentric
05-15-2006, 05:20 PM
Doc,
Why did you run a 30A circuit for it? It only needs 20A. GFCI's don't come larger than 20A. I think the plug on your RV cord is probably a 10-30. If the ground spade is "L" shaped, it is. . . . Hank

There's another thread on this board that beats the dead horse of why I installed the new circuit - http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=18670&highlight=haf250a to save you a search.

Suffice it to say that even though the HAF250A is sold as requiring 20 amp input, it won't reliably run on that amperage. The unit has been checked by an authorized repair facility (at my cost, since no anomalies were found), and Hobart people (factory and local) say the "cure" is to use a 30 amp circuit, which I didn't have at the time.

Now to your other question - the ground lug on the extension cord is not "L" shaped, it's the same as the ground lug on the Hobart plug. Here's a pic of both:
http://www.carcentric.com/10-2extcord.jpg

Since everybody so far agrees there is no such thing as a 30 amp GFCI outlet, I guess I have the choice of using a 20 amp GFCI outlet (with adapter between the outlet and cord) or a 30 amp non-GFCI outlet (sounds like that's the recommended route as there's no GFCI shock protection needed).

Grappletractor
05-15-2006, 05:46 PM
Since this is a dedicated outlet to a dedicated grounded tool forget the gfci, you dont need it. You could have skipped the special recepts but it wont hurt anything and since you have special recepts common tools cannot be plugged into it you are good to go without gfci.

The proper code reason for not needing a GFI is the fact that the receptacle will be above 20 amps .
The only reason a 20 amps and below receptacle could be a non GFI in a garage is if it's a single or duplex receptacle for two appliances that, in normal use , is not easily moved from one place to another or if the receptacle is not readily accessible . 210.8(A)2

hankj
05-15-2006, 09:51 PM
Well, now that you wiped my glasses for me, I recall that discussion!

Grappletractor, I don't think Phil was looking for the code rerquirement (although you be right on!). He just wanted to be safe!

Have fun with it, Phil. Mine still runs on O/A!:o

Hank

TOMWELDS
05-15-2006, 11:43 PM
The NEC 'is' a minimum........

carcentric
05-16-2006, 07:39 PM
I picked up a (non-GFCI) 30 amp 125 volt outlet today that fits on the RV extension cord shown a few posts above.

Turns out it's called a "Trailer Outlet" (surprise!) - Pass & Seymour Cat No 3830 (flush mount 2P 3W Non-NEMA configuration) if anybody else needs one.

The only faceplate for it was a stainless steel one, but that's okay I guess.

Sberry
05-16-2006, 10:07 PM
That will work and it keeps things from being plugged in there that shouldnt be.

carcentric
08-06-2006, 11:39 AM
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - THREE MONTHS LATER - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

It was impossible to add the new outlet IN the wall, so I had to use a surface mount box (right below the subpanel). There's a pretty short run of 10-2, and the "RV hookup" extension cord (with 120v 20 amp shaped adapter on the end) is also 10-2.
http://www.carcentric.com/Mvc-159f.jpg

Here's a close-up of the outlet - marked as suggested.
http://www.carcentric.com/Mvc-160f.jpg

I've also started using a kitchen countdown timer so I don't exceed the 3.5 minutes of cutting and 6.5 minutes of not cutting (35% duty cycle). It sticks to the car via a built-in magnet and beeps when the time has elapsed.
http://www.carcentric.com/Mvc-161f.jpg

And yes, the plasma cutter is working again. :crossfingers:
:rolleyes: