Cummins auto transmission question

[MAC702]

You guys are such great help, maybe you can teach me some more about this new rig. It's a 1996 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins and an auto tranny (I prefer manual, but you take what the deal comes with sometimes.) Anyway, I'm really hoping this is normal, but it sure acts differently from every other auto tranny I'm experienced with. For example, usually with an auto, the RPMs are still related to road speed in each gear. As you give it gas, the RPMs climb and so does the speed, in each gear, just like a manual.

Well, with this truck, when I give it the joy pedal, the RPMs shoot right up to say, 2100 and STAY THERE throughout the entire acceleration period for that gear. Then, it shifts, and the RPMs will stay at about 1800 through the next period of acceleration.

Also related, after accelerating to where I want to be, the engine will fall almost to idle speed while maintaining road speed. This is what I first noticed last week. After realizing the steady RPM thing the last few days, I figured I'd better ask about it.

[coalsmoke]

auto transmissions are not something I know much about, I'm all standard for the most part. To me, it sort of sounds like you have a high-stall torque converter in it. Any sign of the rest of the truck being hot-rodded or used for heavy hauling? If you punch it real hard, will it make it above 2100rpm? If no, it might well be a high-stall, but if it does, I have no idea, as I don't think there is any computer interface with our earlier year trucks.

[MAC702]

auto transmissions are not something I know much about, I'm all standard for the most part. To me, it sort of sounds like you have a high-stall torque converter in it. Any sign of the rest of the truck being hot-rodded or used for heavy hauling? If you punch it real hard, will it make it above 2100rpm? If no, it might well be a high-stall, but if it does, I have no idea, as I don't think there is any computer interface with our earlier year trucks.
My stepdad (The Powerstroke driver) gave it what he called a "stall test" yesterday. He floored the brake pedal and gave it the fuel. The RPMs climbed and climbed and the truck really wanted to move, and he let off at about 2600. He didn't say it failed...:confused:

The truck had the weight-distribution bars of a 5th wheel, so it had definitely been used for towing; but I don't know how much. Can't see any other mods other than the trailer brakes module.

[coalsmoke]

Mac, i often hear people putting torque converter lock-ups in so they can lock their TC, especially under higher horsepower applications, and it is possibly to avoid this issue that you are experiencing. I am inclined to think that your transmission is doing its job like it is supposed to do. I would be less concerned though if the rpms stayed a bit lower. 1800rpm is about the peak rpm/hp spot for that engine as it sits unmodified.

I'll ask some guys that know better than me, should have an answer in a couple days for you.

[MAC702]

Thanks. Like I said, I'm hoping it's normal. It's probably quite a heavier duty transmission than even the auto in my F-250 with the 460, so it might be different.

[coalsmoke]

Mac, here's what I was told curteousy of the fine fellow CTD owners at the TDR.

guy one: yup... that's what they do. I hate it

guy #2: thats dodge's excuse for a torque converter its the most horriblily inefficant piece man ever put in a truck. they tested the truck to see if it moved. maybe. many people have came up with diffrent converters. find the one that works best for your needs and save your pennys. mine is stock I hate the thing so much that from 5mph+ I'm running with the mistery switch on. get better fuel milage to.

Mac, I believe that the mystery switch refers to locking up the TC, but I can look into it for you if you want to know more.

[MAC702]

That is one load off my mind. I THANK YOU VERY MUCH...

[coalsmoke]

That is one load off my mind. I THANK YOU VERY MUCH...
My pleasure :)

[RadMan]

You guys are such great help, maybe you can teach me some more about this new rig. It's a 1996 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins and an auto tranny (I prefer manual, but you take what the deal comes with sometimes.) Anyway, I'm really hoping this is normal, but it sure acts differently from every other auto tranny I'm experienced with. For example, usually with an auto, the RPMs are still related to road speed in each gear. As you give it gas, the RPMs climb and so does the speed, in each gear, just like a manual.

Well, with this truck, when I give it the joy pedal, the RPMs shoot right up to say, 2100 and STAY THERE throughout the entire acceleration period for that gear. Then, it shifts, and the RPMs will stay at about 1800 through the next period of acceleration.

Also related, after accelerating to where I want to be, the engine will fall almost to idle speed while maintaining road speed. This is what I first noticed last week. After realizing the steady RPM thing the last few days, I figured I'd better ask about it.


Hey Mac
I belive what you are experiencing has more to do with the diesel engine. Your cummins motor has a relatively narrow powerband(compared to your 460) and makes alot of power around 2000 rpm(plus or minus 200 rpm or so).
Your '96 should have come with an a618 overdrive auto with a lockup TC. It is a computer controlled affair with a very high top gear ratio.
While I've never seen a dodge tach just sit at a certain rpm,but while accelerating it doesn't swing up like a gas motor.
A relatively high axle ratio(compared to a gas powered 1 ton), coupled with the TC multiplying torque, makes for a different feel while accelerating
I think tach output is handled by a computer as well, I would trust my ears more than the tachometer in this case, you don't have a CVT in that dodge.

As for the the drop in rpm after accelerating, the high overdrive ratio along with the convertor locking up would account for that, I belive it's a fuel milage thing.

I would pull the dipstick and have a look at the condition of the oil., Mac, I like to give it a sniff, looking for any indication of burnt oil.
Did you ever get that airbag sorted out?

[MAC702]

Still have the airbag light. It's safe to say that's at the bottom of my to-do list.

I think you're right about the lockup in overdrive. When I get between 45 and 55, the OD kicks in, the RPMs drop to about 1500 and it feels like I turned on the afterburner. And at this point the RPMs do climb along with the road speed.

It's weird when starting out though. It almost feels like the thing is struggling just to go from a stop.

[coalsmoke]

Hey Mac

Your '96 should have come with an a618 overdrive auto with a lockup TC. It is a computer controlled affair with a very high top gear ratio.

which is also commonly called the R47RH. I just mentioned this because I have never heard of a618, only R47, but it seems they are the same.

Also, here is a good site with some info on our trucks: http://www.dodgeram.org/

[RadMan]

It's weird when starting out though. It almost feels like the thing is struggling just to go from a stop.
The new ones have 5 speed auto's and 6 speed manuals for that very reason.

[RadMan]

which is also commonly called the R47RH. I just mentioned this because I have never heard of a618, only R47, but it seems they are the same.

Also, here is a good site with some info on our trucks: http://www.dodgeram.org/


I think they are the same as well, a518/47rh (4speed non locking TC)
a618/47rh(4speed locking TC)

gleaned from the net, which is getting more unreliable by the day.

[MAC702]

Also, here is a good site with some info on our trucks: http://www.dodgeram.org/
That is a good site. I've learned more already! It's bookmarked!

[coalsmoke]

radman, that's where most of my truck knowledge is from too, that and Piers Diesel Research (a very good company if I might add).

Mac, I think you are now officially hooked on the Cummins Turbo Diesel bug, congrats :D

[Bigger Valves]

Mac,
I have a 2000 and what you describe is pretty accurate. These trannys keep working if kept behind and stock motor and maintained. If it's not then it's kinda like a crap shoot. Mine is biting the bullet now so just be glad yours isn't slipping. I want a full on custom rebuilt unit with a nice converter.

If this helps this is how it shifts..
starts in 1st (hopefully..)
shift to 2
shift to 3
stays in 3 and torque converter locks up (this is a large rpm drop)
shifts to 4 aka over drive. Whenever the truck is in fourth the torque converter is always locked up..

Because the torque converter is so ineffecient shifts are small rpm changes (bad) and torque converter lockup is a large rpm change (bad). As long as it's chugging along learn to enjoy it. I'm saving pennies for a nice bomb proof tranny.

[coalsmoke]

Mac,
I have a 2000 and what you describe is pretty accurate. These trannys keep working if kept behind and stock motor and maintained. If it's not then it's kinda like a crap shoot. Mine is biting the bullet now so just be glad yours isn't slipping. I want a full on custom rebuilt unit with a nice converter.

If this helps this is how it shifts..
starts in 1st (hopefully..)
shift to 2
shift to 3
stays in 3 and torque converter locks up (this is a large rpm drop)
shifts to 4 aka over drive. Whenever the truck is in fourth the torque converter is always locked up..

Because the torque converter is so ineffecient shifts are small rpm changes (bad) and torque converter lockup is a large rpm change (bad). As long as it's chugging along learn to enjoy it. I'm saving pennies for a nice bomb proof tranny.
yeah, before we know it, mac will be bombing his new rig too.

[MAC702]

Thanks, Bigger Valves.

That makes more sense that the big boost I feel is the lockup dropping the RPMs and still giving me an overdrive later.

Overall, I hate it. It's still worth it to have gotten a good deal on the truck, but I'd be much happier with a better tranny.

When swapping out the tranny, is it even feasible to entertain the idea of putting a manual in, or are there just too many other things (computer, gear ratios) that prohibit it?

Is a torque converter something that can be changed without a big hassle? Auto trannies are magic as far as I know...

[Stick rod]

I think you're right about the lockup in overdrive. When I get between 45 and 55, the OD kicks in, the RPMs drop to about 1500 and it feels like I turned on the afterburner. And at this point the RPMs do climb along with the road speed.

It's weird when starting out though. It almost feels like the thing is struggling just to go from a stop.
Mac,
I`ve got a 96 2500 4x4 Cummins turbo w/auto and mine does very similar to your`s.I`d have to check my rear end ratio not sure but think it`s fairly high.My truck shifts into overdrive at 45 mph reguardless of engine rpms.Rpms stay fairly high until it shifts into overdrive then they drop off and will increse as ground speed increases like you where saying.Either it`s normal or we`ve got some messed up computers.I`m leaning towards it being normal.

[coalsmoke]

Thanks, Bigger Valves.

That makes more sense that the big boost I feel is the lockup dropping the RPMs and still giving me an overdrive later.

Overall, I hate it. It's still worth it to have gotten a good deal on the truck, but I'd be much happier with a better tranny.

When swapping out the tranny, is it even feasible to entertain the idea of putting a manual in, or are there just too many other things (computer, gear ratios) that prohibit it?

Is a torque converter something that can be changed without a big hassle? Auto trannies are magic as far as I know...

i was wondering about the better torque converter idea too.
As for the manual, it is easier just to buy a manual, but, that said, many people ahve sucessfully swapped out their autos for the nv4500 or nv5600 (the latter being the newer 6 speed). either of those transmissions will work fine. SOme fancy-work will be required on your part, but it is do-able.

[RadMan]

Thanks, Bigger Valves.

That makes more sense that the big boost I feel is the lockup dropping the RPMs and still giving me an overdrive later.

Overall, I hate it. It's still worth it to have gotten a good deal on the truck, but I'd be much happier with a better tranny.

When swapping out the tranny, is it even feasible to entertain the idea of putting a manual in, or are there just too many other things (computer, gear ratios) that prohibit it?

Is a torque converter something that can be changed without a big hassle? Auto trannies are magic as far as I know...

An nv4500 will eat up $2000.00, and as CS pointed out, it's not exactly a drop in, so depending on how much you paid for the truck this may or may not be a good deal for you.

The tranny is working like the engineers designed it to, you have four speeds
doing the work of 5 or 6 manual speeds, the convertor is called on to make up the difference, how it feels is personal, I think you will get used to it , Mac.(unplug the tach:D )
Try driving a frieghtliner or international with a 6 speed alison doing the work of a 13 speed roadranger, it is very similar to what you discribe with your dodge.

There are numerous after market convertors and complete tranmissions available, but I don't think they improve much on the drivability you are experiencing, they are beefier, and their main claim is for increased durability.

BTW, Mac how heavy are you, your sluggish start off performance could be a result of a tall axle ratio, but that too would not be a cheap fix either(being a 4X4), maybe shorter tires?

[Charley H]

Hi Mack. I have driven Dodge trucks all my life but i can't help you with the diesel,wish i could. I do know that Cummins makes over 400 LBS, of torque at 1600 rpm. It ia a slow turning engine. Dodge had to gear them high to get any road speed out of them. Years ago i was told that the Ford would run the Dodge down the road but use more fuel doing it. I have a farmer friend who has one,i think 94. A 2500 two wheel drive. He has a gooseneck stock trailer for cattle. He can't keep tranny in it,but when he hooks on to something it will move it. There are aftermarket torque converters for it that are supposed to work better than stock.but a lot of work to change. On a 4X4 you have to tke down the tranny and the diveder box,all heavy stuff. My freind bought a new Chevy diesel last year to see how it would do against the Dodge and he has decided the Dodge has a little more power haulling cattle. Charley.

[Charley H]

Sorry Mack,i said that wrong. My friend does have 4X4 Dodge and so is his new Chevy. Charley.

[MAC702]

Well, I made an appointment today with a diesel specialty shop not far away. They were recommended by a friend who had them do a Dr. Performance power package on his late-model Dodge 2500 Cummins with auto tranny.

Anyway, it'll cost me about $100, and they'll track down an oil leak, diagnose the transmission and basically inspect everything.

Then, I can get a list of what performance upgrades I can buy for how much and what they'll do for the money.

They have a poster on the wall of the world's fastest truck. It's a Dodge with a Banks-powered Cummins, running at 222 MPH, thanks to 795 HP (if I remember that one right) and 1300 ft.-lbs. of torque. Oh yeah, and it supposedly gets 22 MPG. I don't need that; well, maybe the fuel-mileage... (I get 12.5 now, but that 25% better than the Ford!)

I probably need a front-end alignment, too. I suspect it because there are two rear tires (one of the pair on each side) with drastically uneven tire wear. I would guess that the dealership swapped them from the front.

So as I'm backing out of the driveway to their shop, I had a difficult time stopping the truck. The "Brake" light and the "ABS" light came on and I had lost all power braking. A few minutes of testing and it would come and go, usually in reverse. Starting working fine again shortly after that. That's new.

[MAC702]

BTW, Mac how heavy are you, your sluggish start off performance could be a result of a tall axle ratio, but that too would not be a cheap fix either(being a 4X4), maybe shorter tires?
I don't think I'm heavy yet at all. I've got a Knaack box in the back, with a Passport, a Maxstar, and a bunch of grinders and tools, and then the Trailblazer (650#.)

After the truck is running like I want it, the next step is a utility bed, preferably a long, wide one so I can organize enough to cover both my trades well.

Haven't looked at the ratio (would expect it to be stock,) and the tires are a stock size.

[MAC702]

Oh, and get this. I've been driving my Ford still also. It's really handy having an empty truck for getting supplies and running to the taco shop or Christian meetings without a bunch of tools in the back.

Anyway, I loan it to my good friend for the weekend and he tows a boat to the river around Needles, CA. He called to tell me it blew the transmission on the way down there. Bummer. I HATE AUTO TRANNIES!!

That Ford never gave me problems, but maybe it was just its time. There's no way it should have had a problem towing a boat. It's an F-250 with a 460 V8. I certainly don't blame him; I felt bad that it let him down!

[RadMan]

Mac, it doesn't sound like you are over weight, anyway post the result of you garage visit.

Did your ford have an overdrive auto? If not i find it unusual that a C6 would let you down, they are good transmissions. One thing auto trannies cannot tolerate is heat, if it ever got hot the piston seals will be damaged and if they leak even just a little the clutch pack will slip under load, this generates, guess what, more heat, it's a just a matter of time before it fails.
Even up here in the frozen north I recommend an auxilary transmission cooler for any towing, even a boat

[MAC702]

Did your ford have an overdrive auto? If not i find it unusual that a C6 would let you down, they are good transmissions. One thing auto trannies cannot tolerate is heat, if it ever got hot the piston seals will be damaged and if they leak even just a little the clutch pack will slip under load, this generates, guess what, more heat, it's a just a matter of time before it fails.
Even up here in the frozen north I recommend an auxilary transmission cooler for any towing, even a boat
I think it has a tranny cooler. Or do you mean a second tranny cooler? I'll check next time I see it. The same friend is a car mechanic by trade and now is an instructor at the comm. college, so that's where he took the truck.

We checked the papers in the glove box because I bought a warranty when I bought the truck. Paid $1500 for the warranty and never needed it. It expired TWO MONTHS AGO...

It is an OD auto.

Also ironically, I bought a set of Auto Meter temp gauges not long ago, for tranny, cylinder head and differential. Then I bought the Dodge and the meters are still on my shelf. Have been figuring on putting them in the Dodge, now. Might have been handy in the Ford after all, eh?

[RadMan]

[QUOTE=MAC702]I We checked the papers in the glove box because I bought a warranty when I bought the truck. Paid $1500 for the warranty and never needed it. It expired TWO MONTHS AGO...QUOTE

That's just wrong!

Sounds like your buddy will get you fixed up, I'm curious as to what exactly failed, maybe he'll do an autopsy and report back to you. (pun intended)


Oh yes I mean a second oil cooler.

[MAC702]

Well, I just returned from the diesel shop. Bad news. Apparantly in 1 out of 1,000 engines of this era, there is a dowel behind the timing cover that can back out and crack the cover. Looks like I'm one of those lucky few. They say it's a $2500/3-day repair as the whole front of the truck has to be taken off and the cam removed to replace that cover.

That's what's been causing the significant oil leak. I didn't buy the warranty this time, last time (as you can see,) it expired before I ever needed it and it cost me $1500. I can't win!

The tranny seems fine (read: normal) but the throttle position sensor (TPS) is slightly out of range, which does affect shift points.

Looks like I've no choice but to take it in or keep leaking oil.

[MAC702]

Oh yes I mean a second oil cooler.
Yeah, it just had the first cooler, and he says there's no excuse for an engine/tranny of that size to have such a small cooler.

[MAC702]

Well, I just returned from the diesel shop. Bad news. Apparantly in 1 out of 1,000 engines of this era, there is a dowel behind the timing cover that can back out and crack the cover. Looks like I'm one of those lucky few. They say it's a $2500/3-day repair as the whole front of the truck has to be taken off and the cam removed to replace that cover.
One thing they said was that it was very rare for it to crack on the top of the cover. Usually it's on the bottom and causes much worse oil leaking, mine's just splashing out the crack and running down the case. Sooooo, I shudder to even mention the word, but if I clean the crack really well.......JB Weld? It's not under pressure... :o

Regardless, it would be bad to clean this area with steam or pressure washer, wouldn't it? Would that get water in the crack and into the oil?

And I forgot to ask them, do I still have some dowel rattling around down there?

[standles]

For 2500.00

I would clean the heck out of the crack and jbweld that sucker. Then I would change the fluid and go on for a bit more.


My 2 cents.

Steven

[coalsmoke]

mac, that is a rare but realistic problem. Wish I had known before you bought the truck that it had a bad oil leak, I would have said something. However, make sure they are not hosing you. This is a well known of problem, but I would not be surprised if there are people out there telling people with oil leaks up front that it is the dowel pin. Send me an email at mosaic_guy@hotmail.com. I will send you some info about how to check and see for yourself if it is the dowel pin. Next, if it is, it is a labour intensive process to change the front casing, but depending on your determination it might be something you can handle doing yourself. I had an oil leak up there too, turned out to be the seal on the front of the aluminum gear housing gone. If the housing is craked but not obliterated, I would tig it in position. The hardest part is getting the fan and shrouding off, everything else is down hill from there. You should really go to turbodiselregister and buy an annual subscription. The online forums are worth every penny. IIRC, to actually change the housing with the updated one, you have to pull the cam shaft and the pump timing shaft out, which also means out come the rad and intercooler. If you do go this route, make sure you get the updated housing from Cummins, with the blind hole in #1 pin.

As far as weight, isn't this truck a 1 tonne? Is it a dually? If so, you are good for 11,500lbs if I remember correctly. If not a dually I think you are good for 10,000 or somewhere close to it. You are NOT over weight, not yet at least. I have my 2500 loaded at 10,650 (8,800gvw), and while at the limit, it is not hopeless on the roads. I still get 15.5mpg, and while I'm no speeding bullet, I can hold my own out there.

[MAC702]

Coalsmoke, they told me all that before they even went to inspect to find the oil leak. Turns out, it is plain as day, right through the top center of that housing, from front to rear, that whole 1-1/2" or so long. Now, whether or not it was caused by the dowel pin or not, I dunno. But they did say the newer ones were upgraded so the pin couldn't come out anymore.

This is a one-ton dually, and there were 5th wheel bars across the bed, so the last guy definitely did SOME towing.

Now, also during the test drive, he asked me if it had any performance work. Well, I haven't and it looked fairly stock to me. He said the black smoke upon acceleration was indicative of something done to it. So, they inspected some bolts or something and said it looks as if someone's messed with the fuel plate. And since I have a stock exhaust it could be a problem if I don't keep an eye on my EGTs, so I plan on getting a pyrometer as soon as I can, and a new exhaust is on the list when money allows anyway. They did say that it doesn't look as if the exhaust has burned anything.

[coalsmoke]

Mac, no mistaking it, that is the dowel pin all right. 95% of the time it takes out a chunk on the left hand upper-step of the gear cover. That's where the crank gear and the cover come together. Dowel pin sits right above that, and when it falls out it usually ends up squeezed inbetween the cover and the gear. The gear wins:( . The fuel plate is simply a profiled plate that your high pressure fuel pump (the p7100 in your case) uses to determine how much fuel it should deliver. Essentially, it gets input from boost and rpm, and thus outputs amount of fuel to injectors. Changing this plate can somewhat increase smoke, but for the most part that is increased through improved injectors, or other pump mods. If the smoke only happens when you pop the throttle and at the beginning of acceleration cycles, it was the star wheel in the afc housing that was turned. No big deal, in laymens it controls pre-boost fuel input. I always recommend an EGT gauge before doing any mods, and hopefully nothing has been cooked in your cylinders. The 5.9 is a very hearty engine though, not easy to do it in.

Did this tuck come from a dealer, is there any recourse regarding the dowel pin? If it were me, I would be trying to reverse the deal. I turned up truck with a stock auto tranny is not a recipe for longevity. Plus, you already have the dowel pin failure, this is not a good way to start off a new relationship with a long-lasting truck.

[MAC702]

My mechanic friend (who now teaches at the comm. college) says he's got a guy that claims he can weld the crack in place for a lot less money. Anyone heard of this failure being fixed this way? It seems plausible; the crack is easy to get to in my case. Seems like it'd be a PITB weld in that oily cast aluminum, though. I sure don't want to do it. He says he'll guarantee it, so maybe I have nothing to lose?

Riddle me this one, guys. I'm so used to driving my big-block Ford that it's taken me a while to adjust my driving style. So while I was still in big-block mode, I was getting 12.5 MPG. For the last several tanks, I've really been concentrating on driving it like a big rig. Smooth starts, lots of long, smooth runs, etc. My mileage for the last few tanks has been 11.5. What's up with that? Do I need more testing, or is there an easy answer? My Ford was 9.9 city and 10.9 highway, and I could set my watch by it, every tank.

[dda52]

I can't help you on that one, Mac.:confused: My '99 1T Dodge 4x4 gets 16.5 unloaded and around 13-14 when puling 10k plus. I can tell you this much. Don't drive it with a heavy pedal. The engine will only take the fuel it needs, so all the pushing is wasted effort....at least on my T-2, 24 valve engine. Same on my big CAT. You can't push the fuel into an electronic diesel...it has to be ready for it. Part of it could be the auto, too. Never did like them in a one ton. Did the previous owner put a chip in it? I have a friend that did that and he got black smoke at acceleration and reduced mileage...way reduced. He got more power, but at a cost.

[Caliber]

Mac check your fuel supplier, Ultra Low sulfur is to be coming on the market starting now. They're gearing up for the new '07 regulations. There will be a change with the new blend, just what the difference's will be is a guess.

[MAC702]

I did notice that the tank before and the current tankfull are definitely low sulfur. The label on the pump even said that it was illegal and bad for the engine to use it in a 2007 and later vehicle. Don't ask me where they are going to fill up. So instead of looking for a diesel sign, they'll have to look for a 2007+ sign, too.

[coalsmoke]

Mac, sounds like there is a fuel issue there, as my truck used to get 18-20mpg empty and now rolling at 5tonnes it gets 15.5mpg It does have the 5spd, but that shouldn't account for more than 3 mpg. Have you got your subscription to "turbo diesel register" yet? If not, get on it, it will pay off in spades.

About the cracked casing, first things first, get a big ratchet and turn over your engine manually in proper running direction (I use the altenator nut which turns the serpentine belt) If you here ant grating or rattling sound you nee to get that cover off as the dowl pin will still be sitting on a gear. More often than not they punch a whole the size of a walnut through the case, so if yours is only cracked you got off lucky, but the pin could still be sitting up there just getting worn on top of the gear. It has happened before, one guy the pin was worn half down before it came out the oil pan. About the welding, is he going to gaurantee that if the cover warps or the seal is ruined from the heat that he will fix it properly? I would be worried about heat welding worsening the situation. If he wil gaurantee all that, go for it, if not, I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.

[MAC702]

... Have you got your subscription to "turbo diesel register" yet? ...
I just went through the website AGAIN. I gave up AGAIN trying to find out WHERE to say "YES! Sign me up!" This time I went ahead and requested the free sample issue that is supposed to come with more "details" about joining.

I don't understand. Either I'm blind, or there is no link to join immediately from the website? I'm probably just blind.

[Zrexxer]

Looks like if you go to http://www.turbodieselregister.com/info.htm and scroll to the bottom of the page, there's a box to subscribe - see attached screen capture.

[MAC702]

I feel dumb; thanks for the link. Now, I've paid my money and still can't figure out how to log on for the first time. At no time during the subscribing process was I assigned (or chose) a logon and password.

[81Malibu]

Ive never been to the site but maybe they give you a temp. log in and password after your confirmation of what you paid them, then later you go change it...just a thought. Oh and we have a 92 Dodge 250 with the Cummins and auto and it does the same thing if you put your foot in it if your towin something heavy it just revs to about 2200 and stays there until it shifts then goes back down to about 1800 again.

[Zrexxer]

I feel dumb; thanks for the link. Now, I've paid my money and still can't figure out how to log on for the first time. At no time during the subscribing process was I assigned (or chose) a logon and password.Right above the box, Mac... says username and password will be emailed to you in 48 hours. :p Don't feel bad, I have days like that all the time. More so lately, it seems! lol.

[MAC702]

Right above the box, Mac... says username and password will be emailed to you in 48 hours. :p Don't feel bad, I have days like that all the time. More so lately, it seems! lol.
Good thing I didn't do any welding today... :o

[Richs]

You asked a very good common question. I also have a Dodge Cummins mine is a '90. The answer is simple: The torque converters are notoriously sloppy. Probably due to the fact that the factory wants the turbo to spool up faster with a higher stall speed. Anyway there's a company here on LI that can hook you up. Try protorque.com or phone 631 218-8700. Great people. And they really know that Dodge. Other companies such as Bullydog, TCI and B&M can help. Just get a tighter converter.:o

[gypsyrednk]

hello, im going to jump in here if nobody minds and offer some help. i worked for chrysler fo 15 years as a heavy line and trans tech. the trans in question is either a 47 or 48rh trans. most likly a 47rh could be with or with out lock up. sounds to me like you have a lock up converter though. everything you have described sounds normal, the feel of a automatic trans especially a dodge, behind a diesel is a new world for previous gas engine owners. the 47rh trans is a excelent unit and even though alot of people want to say other wise it will out last and out perform most other competitors. chevy's version the 4L80 was never really tested because lets be honest chevy never really had a diesel that would pull much more then a empty 16ft trailer down hill. for has the E40D which is a pretty good unit but is a real sloppy shifting unit which causes premature failure at a huge cost. chrysler does use a highr stall converter than most and has for years but it has worked well for them. the switch in question to turn you lock up on and off is not a bad idea but remember this it is designed to come on in 3rd and 4th gear for a reason. the clutch in this or anyothr converter is not ment to carry atot of torque and will fail if turned on to soon. unless you are having a problem with the lock up hunting at highway speeds i wouldnt mess with it. if i have offended any bow tie or motorcraft fans then, :p :p , haha

another good idea for you would be to go to you local dealer and ask them to run you a options list on your truck it free and it will tell you everything you need to know as far as what it was ordered with. not a bad piece of information to have. they can also tell you of any recalls on that truck, i thing there might have been a clock spring recall concerning the airbag but im not sure. remember recalls are free and the are for life, they do not expire.

[MAC702]

Gypsy, WELCOME to Weld Talk. Excellent informative post, too. I did check that there are no recalls for this truck, but I would like to get that options list.

I know what you mean about Ford's E40D. I just replaced one on my F-250 (behind a 460) for $1800.

[gypsyrednk]

thanks for the welcome. if you got a E40D rebuilt for $1800 you should go to see you priest for forgiveness, hhahahahaahaha the last one i did ran me over $1200 in parts alone, now mind you that was a older E40D and had alot of updated i.e. planetary set and stuff lke that. but still to get one for &1800 is a **** of a deal.
i have been away from chrysler for about 3 years now but i still remember a little bit about it haha, if i can be of any help let me know.

[MAC702]

if you got a E40D rebuilt for $1800 you should go to see you priest for forgiveness,
I knew it was a good deal, just not how much. My friend is a mechanic by trade. He used to be shop foreman at the auto shop his dad started and brother still runs. Now he teaches at the college, but he had his brother send the truck to their tranny people and I only had to pay their cost (what the tranny shop charges his shop.) My invoice says new transmission, but I don't really know if that means NEW or it can still be a rebuilt.