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78jeepstang
06-25-2005, 08:18 PM
Hey everyone, been lurking here and reading but haven't been able to find what i'm looking for really. For the summer, a friend of ours is letting our family borrow his engine driven welder -- a Lincoln Weldanpower 250. I'm (trying) to teach myself to stick weld, mainly because it seems like I can get a decent stick welder to do various repairs for a lot less than a 175-210 amp MIG welder. I figure the stick welder can take care of various repairs on my Jeep and for the fab projects that require a MIG machine, I can borrow a friend's.

Anyways, since this welder doesn't have recommended settings on it really, what are some good amperage/electrode combinations to memorize? Basically everything I do consists of 1/8" to 1/8", 1/8" to 1/4", or 1/4" to 1/4". I have been messing around with it and I can do alright with 1/8" 7018 rod on 1/4" plate in the flat position at 120 amps, but have problems with undercutting on T joints If I go back down to 3/32" 7018 at 90 amps I can do the T joints alright, but don't know if thats too low of amperage. Thanks for any advice you can give!

DrIQ
06-25-2005, 09:56 PM
You should be able to run the 3/32" 7018, 1/8" 6013, and 1/8" 6010 at the 90 amps setting on DCEP with no problems. For the 1/8" 7018 120 amps is a good setting but when you run 7018 electrodes you run with a short arc length almost a drag technique, if you run a long arc length you you will get undercut.

For the material thicknesses listed, I would recommend the 3/32" 7018 and 1/8" 6013 electrodes at the 90 amp. setting. For the 1/4" you could also run the 1/8" 6010 at the 90 amp setting or 1/8" 7018 at 120 amps.

78jeepstang
06-25-2005, 09:56 PM
Forgot to say....will post pics tomorrow, welder's out of gas right now :mad:

So arc length too long on 7018 causes undercut...what else is that indicative of? Thats really the only problem I think i'm having now -- everything else is going really good. Its amazing how much more 90 amps does with a stick welder than a little MIG box :p

TOMWELDS
06-25-2005, 10:00 PM
When you buy the rods, they give you the recommended amps on the tube.

78jeepstang
06-25-2005, 10:02 PM
I guess what I don't necessarily get is what setting to use for the base metal? Or is really that indifferent, could I really run some 1/16" rods at 45 amps and weld 1/4" as long as I did an absolutely insane number of passes?

Kdredneck
06-25-2005, 10:19 PM
With the right technique and perfect prep and bevel, you might be able to, but I think it would be pointless. Why would you want to do that when you can do it in one pass with the 1/8" 7018. 1/8" 7018 and 6010 are just about the only type of rod I use now, unless I can get my hands on something else free or really cheap. The settings recommended earlier just about mirror what I use to start out, then fine tune as needed. You will get the feel of it the more you practice. I just wouldn't jump right on welding for the jeep until you get alot of practice.

enlpck
06-25-2005, 10:26 PM
I guess what I don't necessarily get is what setting to use for the base metal? Or is really that indifferent, could I really run some 1/16" rods at 45 amps and weld 1/4" as long as I did an absolutely insane number of passes?

Well, sort of. If the base metal is too much thicker (how much? depends on the rod type, welder skill, joint type, etc) than the rod diameter, preheat becomes advisable. 3/32 rod will take you up to, say 1/2" on a butt weld, with proper preparation and technique, before it becomes a pain. Preheat is pretty much required by the time you get to 1". Trying to run a 1/2" fillet with 1/16 would definately be a hassle, but it is certainly doable. I would use 6010 for the root, and let it cook in, then cover with 7018. Running a 1/2" fillet with 1/8 is a breeze (probably about 10 passes, give or take)

I run code welds in 3/8 and 1/2" material with 3/32 7018 with no problem, though I much prefer 1/8 for anything over 1/4". On 3/8 butt welds, Vee groove prep, with 3/32 7018 rod, typically 5 or 6 passes, depending on the position, including the root pass (usually 6010). Add a pass if the root isn't backed and needs to be background and covered. With 1/16 rod, probably about 10 or so passes. With 1/8, 4 passes, because trying to do it in 3 makes for a crummy cap (3/8 with 1/8 rod: I prefer to run it as root, hot pass for much of the fill, cap to one side, cap to the other, with a wire brush between passes, and as little grinding as I can get away with. Other welders will do it differently. I tend to run a bit hot and heavy)

78jeepstang
06-25-2005, 10:27 PM
Well yeah, I know i have to practice a ton, thats why i'm doing it. I'm fairly proficient with MIG, I just really want to have something else 'under my belt' that I can do when needed. The example with 45 amps wasn't saying I would actually do that, just an extreme example :p I'm going to try again tomorrow, if the settings are right it just has to be me making the undercut. I just cut up a whole bunch of 1/4" and 1/8" to practice on and post pics tomorrow. ..hopefully it works out better than things did tonight!

So... tomorrow i'm going to try welding the 1/4" in fillet welds using 3/32 7018 at 90 amps....sound about right?

TOMWELDS
06-26-2005, 12:49 AM
Dont worry what we think. Set it, and try it. Fine tune the amps to your technique. I like to weld hot, so im at the higher end of the amps. Some guys move faster than others, some weave a bit more. Your practicing is about you finding what works best for you. Good luck and have fun.

boilerman79
06-26-2005, 07:49 AM
i suggest you get some 1/8 6010 and some 3/.32 7018 ,set the heat between 80 and 85 and have at it.these two rods work great together.6010 for root/first pass ,then 7018 fill/cover.turn the heat down a little for thinner meatl ,turn it up a little for thick stuff[1/2 inch]You can run the 6010 downhill on 1/8 metal if you have some burn thru,always run 7018 uphill on vertical welds.If you have undercut ,slow down a little and turn heat down a little,practice is the key.

boilerman79
06-26-2005, 02:22 PM
With t- jointd[fillets] i would start out at 80 amps[1/8 6010 and 3/32 7018],if you have trouble keeping an arc going,bump it up to 85.always start out at the lower end if you are not sure,you can grind off cold welds,but if you start out to hot you could burn a hole in your metal.welding in the flat position takes a little more amps.t-joints,vertical up ,and overhead uses the lower end of your rod amp range.Under cut can be caused by to much heat and to fast of a travel speed,so slow down a little and turn heat down a little,sometimes 2 or 3 amps is enough,you dont have to make ajustments in 5 or 10 amps,it does take a lot of rod burning time to get it right but once you get it dialed in you wont forget it.if you are using 1/8 7018s, try starting out a 110 to 115 amps for t-joints and adjust as needed.good luck,you will get her dialed in.

garfish
06-27-2005, 09:41 AM
78jeep says he is working off a engine-driven generator machine. My novice experience is that type of welder produces a particularly smooth DC arc vs. any plug-in the wall machine. Anyone confirm that? TIA.

Sberry
06-27-2005, 09:57 AM
There wouldnt be much noticable difference in arc quality in most of these machines especially to a novice. I am about an A- weldor and I would be pressed to tell the difference most of the time and for general work it would be insignificant as long as both machines were DC.

78jeepstang
06-27-2005, 11:32 AM
Well I still haven't gotten out to try anything out, weather hasn't been cooperating and neither is work :( Thanks for all the suggestions though, i've got enough to do to keep myself busy for quite a while now!